***(Bypass instructions at the end)

#2
I bought a 'spare' headlight switch for my '59 from a salvage yard.

#3
The switch is original, and all the wires are intact, which is great because I can see wire colors.

#4
...a word about Ford's color scheme E.g.: If the print calls for an Orange/Yellow wire, that could mean
the wire will be orange with a yellow stripe OR the wire could be solid orange with a yellow CONNECTOR.

#5
Notice two fuse holders mounted to the rear.  The top small fuse holder has two connectors, so it is
independent of the switch.  The longer bottom fuse is powered by an internal wire.
#6
Let's make sense of the wiring.  The bottom reveals the wiring for the Dome Light on-off switch.
#7
"B" is direct power from the starter solenoid.
"A" is fused power to the Stop Light Switch, Backup Light Switch, Glove Box Switch, etc.
"D" is Dashboard Lighting
"R" is Rear Parking Lights
"P" is Front Parking Lights
"H" is Headlights (to the upper/lower beam switch)
"I" is (dimmed) Instrument Panel Lights
Pulled to the first detent, Front & Rear Parking lights, Instrument Panel lights, and Dash lights shine.
Pulled all the way out, Front Parking lights GO OUT, Rear Parking & Dash Lights remain on, Headlights shine.
The Dome Light will shine any time the knob is turned all the way counter-clockwise (or when a door is open).

#8
"B" is all-important.  It is power coming from the battery and it feeds fuses.  That is why it is a screw post.
There are NO fuses between this terminal and the starter solenoid, so be extra careful not to short to ground.

#9
The next two pictures show the 'release button' for the handle.  It is located in the middle of this switch.
I want to point out the typical green patina between the Rheostat and the red connector.
THIS is why dashboard lights stop working.  More on that later...
#10
The Rheostat comes out without using tools.  It is a little tricky, but simply remove the handle, (the bezel
should already be unscrewed) and pull the porcelain puck against the spring, cock it to the side, and the
whole thing comes out.  The parts assemble one way so you can't get it wrong.

#11
A closer look... Most folks believe the nickel/chrome wire (Ni-Chrome) breaks and that is why their dash
lights fail.  I have never seen one actually broken.  The culprit is brass plated steel parts used in the rheostat.
You can see the contact folds down to contact the center portion of the Rheostat.

#12
The two 'dimples' in the porcelain control your Dome Light.  When the handle is twisted all the way
counter-clockwise, these dimples push on two wafers on the bottom which are the Dome Light contacts.

#13
According to the print, Orange/Yellow wires come from the Key Switch (Ign) and the fuse feeds the signal
flasher (then continues to the steering column).  I believe this small fuse is ~7-amp.

#14
You can see, the larger fuse is fed from Yellow (Battery) and it protects "D" (and other switched circuits).

#15

#16

#17
Here's a brand new Rheostat Kit, straight off the shelf from the Parts Dept at Ford.  I couldn't
believe the center was metal!  I had no idea the Ni-Chrome wire was connected to it.  It is.
#18
I scraped the green patina off the brass sleeve with a knife.  Later, I did the center metal.
Then I did the one in my car.  It was exactly the same thing.  Now, my dash lights dim properly
and the new Rheostat remains in the box.

***BYPASS INSTRUCTIONS

Some folks couldn't be bothered with dimming dash lights, mostly because the dash needs as much light as possible and Ford wasn't very liberal in the number of lights.  You can add a jumper between the "I" and "R" terminals.  Then, your dash lights will shine at full brilliance as soon as you pull the Headlight Switch out to either detent.