Ford 292 Y-Block

Engine Assembly Section

The bare block is clean, all the holes are chased and clear, brass freeze plugs
and pipe plugs are installed, all surfaces are gone over with a long and
broad file and they are flat. The pistons are all the same weight, rods are
balanced, and so is the crankshaft. The heads are complete and ready.

One more very important check: The center cam bearing has two oil slots
(one for each rocker shaft). Shine a flashlight at the bearing hole and look
down one deck for the light. Just to be sure, I blew down this hole to get a
sense of resistance. Now do the other side. If you aren't happy with the
results, reseat the center cam bearing, properly. I have opened the slotted
holes in the bearing, to get good, free, flow. These holes feed the rocker shafts.

With most engines, lifters are usually the last component to be installed. Not
so with the Ford Y-Block. These solids are the very first components to be
installed. With the block upside down, coat plenty of pre-assembly lube over
all moving surfaces.

* Install the solid LIFTERS in their holes.
* Install the CAM (or the lifters will fall out when you turn the block over).

# 1
This is my brown dog named, 'BLUE'. She's from Mississippi and she loves engines.

# 2
This is my German Shorthaired Pointer named, 'Pepper'. All she ever wants to do is play, 'fetch'.

# 3
This is the look of, rejection.

# 4
Lifters and cam are in, and so is the main rear seal. Time to install main bearings.

# 5
* Install the MAIN BEARING shells by starting them at one end and sliding them into place.
If any debris happens to be there, sliding the bearing shell in place will push it out of the way.

# 6
"...ok, NOW do you want to want to play ball?"
* Install the CRANKSHAFT but hold off on the BEARING CAPS until we check for clearances.

# 7
All these bearings are 'STD', meaning nothing was ground off the crankshaft. I still had very tight
bearings. Some were so tight, I couldn't move the crank. After inspecting a tight bearing, I could
see shiny areas where the tin was mashed too tight against the crankshaft.

To relieve the bearing, carefully file the back of the bearing. Be careful not to bother the tang.
Filing will make it smaller. Always check clearance with PlastiGage, then spin the crank by hand.

# 9
One bearing at a time, use lots of lube, check for fitment, then spin the crankshaft. If it binds,
don't go any further until it is clearanced. I use Plastigage. It's cheap and it works very well.

#10
'Curl' each bearing shell into position. If anything is in the way, it will slide out instead of being
trapped under the bearing.

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#15
Pay attention to detail: This hole squirts oil up into the oil ring. It the hole MUST be clear and the
bearing has to line-up. These bearing shells are interchangeable, top to bottom.

#16

#17
Here, I'm oiling the bottom ring and the wrist pin hole from the inside.

#18
Yep, oil the wrist pin from the outside as well. There's no such thing as too much lube.

#19
Work it back and forth, just to make sure.

#20

#21
These split hoses will save the crankshaft from serious damage. One small nick in the crank will
wipe out an entire bearing. If you nick the crankshaft, stone the nick until smooth.

#22
It's not important that the hose 'sleeves' cover the entire rod bolts, but they must not fall off.

#23
Line up the piston facing forward, with the rod bolts straight up and down.

#24

#25
Carefully tap it in while constantly checking the crank side.

#26
Notice the crank journal is far away so the piston can come in deep, and match up with the rod
next to it.

#27
I have squished Plastigage in the bearing and now I'm checking my clearance.

#28
One thousandth is too tight. This measures less than .001"

#29
Here, I'm checking two bearings at once.

#30
Be sure to clean off the Plastigage wax residue and lube it well before the cap goes on.

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#33
Now all the pistons are properly sized and installed. HEADS come next...

#34

#35
In the Y-Block, the two outer head bolts go through a water jacket, and must be properly sealed.

#36

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#38
After the head bolts are uniformly torqued, the push rods and rocker shafts are installed.
Back off the rocker arm adjustment screws so none of the pushrods bend.

#39

#40
One side is done and the pushrods are just placed in the other side. It's easy to do valve lash
with no timing chain. Degreeing comes later.

#41

#42
Notice the chrome oil pickup tube coming out of the oil pan. Y-Block oil pumps are outside the engine.

#43
Notice, I eliminated the drain tube and plugged the hole with a bolt. This pressurizes the shafts
and forces engine oil out the rocker arm holes. It also raised my oil pressure. Now, each rocker
arm gets enough oil, and the high oil pressure keeps them clear.