#1We need to talk about this before setting the intake manifold.
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This ia a roller cam setup. The splash shield that covers the roller lifters interferes with #5 exhaust lifter. The pan only needs a simple bend to clear the lifter, otherwise it will be very noisy.
#1
We need to talk about this before setting the intake manifold.
#2
Number one cylinder's lifters do not interfere.
#3
Here is the full pan in place.
#4
This is where the link hits the pan.
#5
A simple bend with pliers fixes it.
#6
#7
These FelPro 90145 intake manifold gaskets work well.
#8
It's worth mentioning... I don't use the cork 'block' gaskets that are included in the gasket set. Instead, I use Permatex Black on the front and rear between the block and intake manifold. Here's why... These manifolds have a hard enough time descending and sealing. The cork gaskets push the manifold up. So,
I use lacquer thinner to clean the metal surfaces then I spread a THIN coat of Permatex on the front and rear of the block and the front and rear of the intake manifold.
After bolting the manifold (and I'm satisfied it's down) I fill the two gaps with Permatex. Do not put too much Permatex in the gap. Use just enough. I've never had one leak oil.
Notice that the 'crossover port' is missing in both the heads and the intake manifold. I do not want additional heat running under the carb to warm it up.
#9
Notice that I use flat washers under the intake manifold bolts. They help the manifold to 'slide down' in place for a good seal against the heads.
#10
This is the proper way to fit the thermostat and gasket. The housing neck has a groove for the thermostat to 'sit in', then the gasket goes over the whole thing.
#11
This is an OEM Temperature Sending Unit (Motorcraft A260 2H or C6DZ10884A ) from a F100. The threads match the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold. Do not use teflon tape on the threads. Instead, a good plumber's paste (sparingly) so it doesn't inhibit the electrical ground through the threads.
If you have the smaller sending unit, a thread adapter works well.
#12
A socket wrench works well for installing the sending unit.
#13
The manifold is in place with the heater hose fitting and sending unit installed.
#14
These steel tubes come in two diameters and they come extra long. It is a C5AZ-8555-A Bypass Tube, 'cut to length'. The Edelbrock manifold has a 5/8" hole. I cut this down to 1-3/4" then pound 1/2" into the manifold using a hammer and a block of wood. LocTite helps too. More than 1-1/4" sticking out will get in the way of the water pump. Remember, the rubber hose that goes over this tube WILL need to be changed in the future. If the tube is too long it's impossible to get the hose over both the water pump tube and this one.
Another option is to tap the intake manifold with a 3/8" NPT tap and use a brass fitting that will never rust out.
Rockauto.com sells this 5/8" part for ~US$3.50: Four Seasons (Part #84716). Search 'by part number' not by vehicle.
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