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  #1  
Old 02-08-2017, 08:21 PM
elijahbird7 elijahbird7 is offline
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Default 59 Convertible system...How much fluid?

I plan to replace all of the parts that make the top function, motor, cylinders and hoses. I can't seem to find anywhere that lists the capacity of the whole system. How many quarts of transmission fluid will I need to completely fill it up?
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Old 02-08-2017, 08:36 PM
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Originally the top system used brake fluid. If you are replacing all the parts then it's recommended to use transmission fluid instead. You should fill the pump so the level is at the very bottom of the fill hole with the top in the up position. There is no standard capacity. Cycle the top up and down a couple times and then open the fill screw slightly until you hear air escape. Do this a few times and then refill to the bottom of the fill hole.

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Old 02-08-2017, 08:50 PM
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Thanks John. I was figuring somewhere between 1.5 to 3 quarts, but have no idea. Parts are on the way, and a new top as well. Spring project. No way I would use brake fluid.
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Old 02-08-2017, 08:58 PM
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It doesn't hold that much. Probably a quart or less.

John
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Old 02-09-2017, 08:03 AM
Joe Johnston Joe Johnston is offline
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I would replace the hoses as well. When an old hose breaks it makes quite a mess. (Don't ask how I know.......)
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:32 PM
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Yes, hoses were ordered as well. That part of the project will arrive tomorrow, and the top in a few days.
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Old 02-10-2017, 01:35 PM
kimmc kimmc is offline
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Default '59 convertible system...how much fluid?

When I filled my all new system (pump, hoses, and rams) last year I did it on the bench top. That made it much easier and the inevitable small spills were more easily cleaned up. Once filled initially, the system was cycled using a temporary electrical connection to the pump, the air was bled out, then the fluid was topped off and the cycle was repeated. The process was repeated probably 10 or 12 times before my helper and I thought we had bled all the air from the new system. We used transmission fluid so the air-containing oil bled off after each cycle was kind of a foamy pink color. After the cycling and bleeding process the oil came out red and clear, not foamy. I sure recommend doing this on the bench first. You will probably be hating life if you try this with the system installed in the car. Good luck Kim Mc
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Old 02-10-2017, 01:44 PM
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Kim is correct. You can connect everything out of the car, bleed the system and then install it without disconnecting anything. I've done it that way also. If you have the top stacked in the trunk it makes it easier to hook everything back up.

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Old 02-10-2017, 03:41 PM
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That is my basic plan. Take the old system out without taking the hoses off. Then put the new system together and bleed the new system before putting it in the car. The parts just came and I have one question.
When I hook the hoses to the cylinders and pump, do I use thread sealer or not?
Also, with the top down, will I be able to get at all the parts without taking out the rear seat. It's stored for the winter in the center of my garage with the top up, and with the garage door opener right above it, I can't lower the top in the garage right now.
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Old 02-10-2017, 03:55 PM
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You should not need thread sealer when using flare fittings. If all the parts are new there's no reason for it to leak.

I would remove the back seat if you can. It's much easier to get to the cylinder pins with the seat out.

John
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