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  #1  
Old 10-25-2016, 10:48 PM
hotelbuoy hotelbuoy is offline
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Default A long time to say hello and finally a question

Hey you all. I have been reading and familiarizing with threads and post for some time. I don't think I have ever done so.

Any how. I have a '65 Tbird convertible. I think I've had this car for just over two years. Initially nothing worked on this car and I've been getting all the systems working during this period of time.

List of upgrades and new &/or replacement parts:
Edel intake
Edel carb 650 thunder
Custom +2" rear leafs
New gas tank
Edel fuel pump
Miloden oil pump
Water pump
Pertronix flamethrower distributor
Engine mounts
Upper lower ball joints
Lower control arm bushings
Steel fuel line and rubber ends
Steel brake lines and rubber ends
Dual reservoir master cylinder and dual diaphragm booster
Upgraded swaybar
New brake shoes and cylinders
Sending units both oil and fuel
Relays for headlights and distributor
Front seat foam

What else. Can't remember off the top of head but there are others. And not all has been done at the same time. This has been my daily driver since I got it running. Well I don't drive all that much either

Now I'm blowing oil out the breather and PCV.
Bummer time for new rebuild I think.

Question is:
I have only needed to replace the rear bearing oil sealing on the passenger side never the drivers side. In fact, driverside appearse original.
But, I have had to replace the passenger twice and it looks like I need to do a third!!
Any reason why this oil seal might not be sealing. I have worked on cars my whole life and that may not be as long as some but I'm a very competing builder. Thought you all might have some ideas on how to get this darn seal to do its job. Advise and thoughts are always welcome.
Mike

Last edited by hotelbuoy : 10-25-2016 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 10-25-2016, 11:54 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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Welcome to Squarebirds.org, Mike. By the looks of your upgrades you're well on your way to many miles of happy cruisin'.

Axle seals are not much different from any other seal. They need lubrication and a smooth surface to ride on. If either are absent, they quickly fail but these seals normally last a very long time.

Rear axle bearing slop is normally noisy and it affects the drum brake operation but it is also another cause for premature seal failure. You can check axle slop without removing the tire.

If you're headed toward an overhaul I highly suggest you get a pair of Edelbrock FE heads. Yes, they're high priced but the benefits far outweigh rebuilt cast iron heads. They are aluminum with hardened valve seats and stainless valves (for gasohol and high compression), the guides are bronze, guide seals are Viton, tapped holes have helicoils and they bolt right on. By the time you machine and rebuild iron heads, the Edelbrocks make a lot more sense as all the parts are new and done (in the USA) with a 5/8" thick deck. Heads are the heart of every engine and they are a component I never cut corners on.
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Old 10-26-2016, 09:43 AM
OX1 OX1 is offline
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I will throw another reason into the mix. Many times these days, 30 year old quality made parts are better than new today.

Just replaced my 5 year old fridge 2 days ago. Last house, I was there for 20 years (bought fridge when moved in) and that fridge was working when I left (probably still is).

Auto parts are no different, so be real careful where you get your parts. I always try for American made and if I can't find that, I go for the most expensive at like a Rock Auto place (that lists all the quality and prices for your application in one place), as the more expensive Chinese stuff seems to at least get better QA.
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Old 10-26-2016, 12:55 PM
hotelbuoy hotelbuoy is offline
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agreed. newer parts defiantly are not the same as older.
for sure i did clean the surface prior to installing the seal. i guess i need to take a better look next time for a scratch or gouge in the surface. i will get this darn seal issue resolved.

As for the new Heads. i definitely will be doing that. i have been thinking about putting a mild stroke kit too
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Old 10-27-2016, 08:50 PM
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fordrodsteven fordrodsteven is offline
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Are you talking about the rear axle bearing oil seal? If yes I would suggest that your problem is caused by a worn axle bearing. The right side (passenger side) is also the drive side on the car rear end if it's not a posi-trac rear end. I'm pretty sure yours is a limited slip differential. Therefore., That right hand side also has gotten the brunt (over the years) of almost all of the force exerted every time you put your foot to the accelerator pedal. You might even find the brakes are worn more on the passenger side more-so than the drivers side... again an indication that the axle is moving off center due to a worn axle bearing. If the bearing is worn significantly it will tear the pads right off the brake shoes (no need to ask me how I know). You could have someone get in the car, apply the brake and change gears from forward to reverse and back again. If you stand back from the side of the car you might even be able to see the wheel moving back and forth whilst the car is not moving at all. My recommendation is to replace the axle bearing when you go in to replace the seal.
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