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  #1  
Old 10-12-2016, 09:17 AM
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Default engine temp guage issue

my engine temp is not working

i took off the plug and grounded it and the guage goes all the way to hot, remove the ground the guage goes back, ok should be simple replace the sender. picked up a new one from car quest and installed ( no teflon just what was already on the threads ) replaced the bullet connector ( new sender has a smaller post ) fire up the car let run for 15 min, no reading, check the rad hose temp 165f, unplug the connector ground it guage moves.

im stumpped, guage works, wiring obviously works, and sender is new, any suggestions

Last edited by YellowRose : 10-12-2016 at 10:03 AM. Reason: Downsized Pix
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:06 AM
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Default engine temp gauge issue

Cody, is your gas gauge and other gauges working? Often, this can be a problem with the Constant Voltage Regulator (CVR) unit that takes the 12v from the system, and down grades it to 6v for the 6v gauges. This causes problems to the gauges, IF that 12V is getting to the gauges instead of 6v. But lets see what jopizz has to say when he sees this. I fixed your pix for you.
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:11 AM
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the oil temp works, and im not sure about the ammeter, it sits in the middle even when the battery is disconnected, is that normal? the engine temp doesn't and the fuel guage didn't, i forgot to look at it again after i fixed the low fuel light relay
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:28 AM
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Default engine temp guage issue

As I recall, with the battery disconnected, or the key turned off, the gauges should go to the far left side and rest. At least that is the way it is on my Squarebird. Hopefully, jopizz or someone with better knowledge than me, will be on here shortly, and be able to help you. It could be anything, like a previous owner getting in there and wiring the gauges incorrectly.. Or a possible problem with that CVR unit. IF it is that, you may have to replace it. If you do, I would replace it with one of the new solid state ones. Our webmaster, Dave Dare ~ simplyconnected, can take your OEM CVR and convert it to a solid state one, and send it back to you. He can give you the details on that IF that is the problem..
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Old 10-12-2016, 01:33 PM
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Default engine temp gauge issue

BTW, Cody, all the wiring schematics for your Tbird are in the Technical Resource Library (TRL). You can click on them to expand them, or print them out as needed. If you do not have them, there they are for you. The link to it is always part of my signature element and also John's ~ jopizz.
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  #6  
Old 10-12-2016, 03:53 PM
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If the gauge goes all the way to Hot when you ground the wire your CVR is probably good. If you have a test light put it on the wire. You should see it pulsing and not solid. Did you ground the wire to the engine block or battery? If the sender is good and your engine is properly grounded it should work. If not it can only be one or the other.

John
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Old 10-12-2016, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
If the gauge goes all the way to Hot when you ground the wire your CVR is probably good. If you have a test light put it on the wire. You should see it pulsing and not solid. Did you ground the wire to the engine block or battery? If the sender is good and your engine is properly grounded it should work. If not it can only be one or the other.

John
i grounded it to the battery, i will test against the block 2moro as im about to leave for work
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Old 10-13-2016, 01:18 PM
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Fuel, oil and temp all work the same way. Each gauge is a little 6V heater that makes a bi-metal coil change length and at on the indicator needle.

The ammeter is different. For '64 it is an actual shunt, where full alternator amperage runs through it then over to the power panel on the passenger side kick panel. The needle should be in the middle with key off, to the left with key on accessories and stuff running, to the right with engine running. Later years (Dave Dare can verify) might use a remote shunt. These are a fire hazard if you install a higher amp alternator and power accessories, so plan accordingly.

For the temperature gauge, test the sender mounted on the intake, disconnect the wire. Use an ohmmeter between the brass hex and the electrical connection. It should read 100 ohms cold, 10 ohms when 180F. Then check ohms between the connector and the intake, then the block, then the chassis. If you don't have proper grounding the gauge won't work.
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Old 10-16-2016, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
If you don't have proper grounding the gauge won't work.
looking under the hood last night, where should the battery ground to the block? mine grounds to the AC idler pulley bracket?
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Old 10-17-2016, 04:22 AM
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Where did Ford put it, or where does it belong?
Ford saved money by putting the shortest copper wire at the closest attachment point.

Your starter motor draws the most current so a good, healthy copper wire needs to stretch to that area. I run a #4AWG from the battery post to a bell housing bolt next to the starter motor. I also 'hang' both (starter motor and ground) wires from a clamp along the engine so vibration doesn't destroy the lug on the starter motor.

Notice that modern cars have a smaller (green #10) body ground wire, connected close to the battery. That's important to prevent body current from returning through drivetrain bearings. Ford cars used a braided wire that stretched from the back of the head to the firewall. - Dave
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