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  #1  
Old 10-03-2016, 09:23 PM
Clint66 Clint66 is offline
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Default 1966 brake booster

Is there a different booster you can use to replace the original? Having a hard time finding one with or without a master cylinder. Every place seem to be out of stock. Just wondering if there is a newer more available model. Thanks for any help!
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Old 10-03-2016, 10:36 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...t=brake&page=3
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Old 10-03-2016, 10:48 PM
Clint66 Clint66 is offline
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Thanks for the reply. I looked at that post and was wondering does it matter if the master cylinder is a two part container? The original one is a single I think? Guess I haven't done enough with converting master cylinder to know if that makes a difference.
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Old 10-04-2016, 08:24 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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That thread is for a matched set: booster and master. If you have a single master I recommend upgrading to a double for safety reasons.
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Old 10-04-2016, 11:48 PM
Clint66 Clint66 is offline
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This looks good but is there a booster combo on the market I don't have to modified to make work?
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  #6  
Old 10-05-2016, 01:34 AM
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I totally agree with Yadkin (Steve). For the sake of safety for you and your family, use a dual-reservoir (dual piston) master cylinder. Every car on the market has one (for many decades, now) because the NTSB requires it along with seat belts, etc.

There is nothing worse than having NO brakes.

Yes, you will need to modify your system but it really isn't hard to do and it can be done in one Saturday morning in your driveway.

You also need a combination proportioning valve. This ties both front and rear systems together by means of a hydraulic spool. If a brake line ruptures or a wheel cylinder comes apart, the spool will shut off the 'bad' system to prevent further brake fluid loss and it will turn on a 'BRAKE FAILURE' light while the 'good side' still works as normal.

You can buy pre-made brake lines at most auto parts stores OR you can cut, bend and flare your own (which is what I recommend). Your car's wheel lines already come to a tee on your frame so you only need to re-route the lines to a 'prop valve' at the front of your car.

Combination proportioning valves are sophisticated in their operation as they;
meter, giving initial pressure to the rear wheels, then to the fronts,
tie the front and rear systems 'together' with a spool in between,
turn on a 'FAIL' light and,
if you have DISK/DRUM systems this valve lowers pressure to the drum brakes but maintains full pressure to the disk calipers.

If all your front/rear brakes are the same, (disk/disk or drum/drum) there is a different combination prop valve for that application because both systems use the same pressure.

One of our longest topics on Squarebirds.org covers changing our cars to disk brakes. Many of our members have done it and none of them have switched back. My classics stop just like a modern car. - Dave
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Old 10-05-2016, 10:11 PM
Clint66 Clint66 is offline
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Yes I agree safety is number 1! Does anyone know which model of brake booster he used? It said tuff stuff 2131, but there are several different models. 2131 nb and a couple others I don't recall the letters used. Just want to get the correct one.
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Old 10-06-2016, 12:36 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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The 2131 series looks to be different finishes and bore sizes. Choose a 1" bore.
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:33 PM
stubbie stubbie is offline
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I was just looking at RRS and saw this. They are supposed to fit Thunderbirds as well as Torinos.
http://www.rrs-online.com.au/66-70-t...-cylinder.html
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  #10  
Old 10-18-2016, 08:32 AM
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Interesting. However there isn't a lot of room down in that area. Since the engine is squashed up against the engine bay, the transmission tunnel is huge right there. The HVAC plenum is probably in the way.
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