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  #1  
Old 03-20-2016, 11:55 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Default Rear axle seal leak

Last time I cleaned out my differential and installed new wheel bearings I found that the passenger side half shaft was corroded at the sealing surface. I installed it as is and hoped for the best. After two months I found a puddle of diff oil under the car next to that tire so pulled the axle back out to inspect, finding the leak at the seal.

Apparently kits are made for some GM axles which include a bushing and oversize seal. But not for Fords. Luckily I found a local machine shop that could fix it. He cut out the corroded area on a lathe to the exact size of a bushing then froze the axle, heated up a bushing and slid it over the area. After the temperatures were equal he trimmed out the bushing OD to the correct size.
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Last edited by Yadkin : 03-21-2016 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:08 PM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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I don't suppose there's an oversized rear axle seal produced yet? I checked my old photos and although my axles are corroded similar to these, the machined area is still clear. So why are my rear axle seals still leaking?

I remember tapping the new seals in until seated. These are still leaking bad enough that I can see lube on the rear of the backing plates, but not bad enough to contaminate the brake shoes.

Dean
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  #3  
Old 12-12-2017, 05:46 PM
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Make sure the vent is clear. If it's clogged pressure can cause even new seals to leak.

John
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Old 12-12-2017, 07:19 PM
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If the leak advances, pull the axle and check for a torn seal. They should not leak. - Dave
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
Make sure the vent is clear. If it's clogged pressure can cause even new seals to leak.

John
I saw the vent on the rear axle housing exploded view in the manual. Where is it exactly and how is it cleaned? I would imagine Brakekleen is out of the question. A wire and some thin cloth just to sure it's venting?

Dean
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:37 AM
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It's on the driver side tube. Use a piece of wire and make sure it goes all the way through. You can also put a piece of hose on it and see if you can blow through it.

John
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Old 12-13-2017, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanj View Post
I would imagine Brakekleen is out of the question.Dean
I wouldn't empty the entire can into the housing, but it would be fine to use, as it will evaporate into the atmosphere thru the now open vent fairly quickly, particularly with the heat created in operation.

Scott.
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Old 12-13-2017, 12:13 PM
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If it's where I Think, on the top side of the driver's side tube, then it's been capped with a metal cap. I don't mean the vent, I mean the vent is missing and the threaded area is capped.

I checked ebay and it could be a newer version which looks like threads with a loose metal cap. Very primitive. I used Brakleen on it just in case this thing actually is a part.

Dean

Last edited by Deanj : 12-13-2017 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 12-13-2017, 12:48 PM
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I believe the original component consisted of a "rattle-cap" vent device screwed into the housing on the driver's side tube towards the top and angled somewhat rearward. The original is somewhat different from the common unit of today, flatter, shorter, less "rattle" function, and perhaps more prone to plugging; and may appear as simply a cap vs a vent devise.

At times these caps will become clogged/encrusted, seizing the cap and preventing proper airflow. A good application of cleaner and a light tapping may work, but removal for a more thorough cleaning using compressed air is best.

Scott.

Last edited by pbf777 : 12-13-2017 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 12-13-2017, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbf777 View Post
I believe the original component consisted of a "rattle-cap" vent device screwed into the housing on the driver's side tube towards the top and angled somewhat rearward. The original is somewhat different from the common unit of today, flatter, shorter, less "rattle" function, and perhaps more prone to plugging; and may appear as simply a cap vs a vent devise.

At times these caps will become clogged/encrusted, seizing the cap and preventing proper airflow. A good application of cleaner and a light tapping may work, but removal for a more thorough cleaning using compressed air is best.

Scott.
You got it Scott. That's it. I cleaned it as best I could. Looks like it's never been serviced. Imagine that.

I removed the brake drums and while it looks like some lube is present on the rear backing plate, it's dry as a bone on the brakes side. I got to leave that alone and trust the vent cleaning might address the issue if there is an issue.

Dean

Last edited by Deanj : 12-13-2017 at 04:01 PM. Reason: Correction to my observations
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