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  #1  
Old 08-01-2015, 01:00 PM
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Default Replacing Oil Pan Gasket

Shop manual says I need to drain the cooling system as well as the crankcase. It also says I need to raise the engine a bit to put tension on the motor mounts, I assume to give someone room to remove the oil pump.

I am not going to drop the Oil Pump, just the pan to replace the 50 year old gasket.

2 Questions:

1) Do I need to drain the cooling system to just drop & clean the oil pan, and replace the gasket? (this I can do, but do I need to?)

2) Do I need to really raise the engine to do this? (I cannot as I do not have a motor sling).
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  #2  
Old 08-01-2015, 01:12 PM
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You don't need to drain the coolant. You just have to be careful that you don't raise it too high and bend the radiator hoses. You need to remove the oil pump screen to get clearance to remove the pan. You don't need to remove the whole pump. You can use a floor jack to raise the engine slightly. There are flat spots on the front corners of the block where you can position a piece of 2x4 on the jack. Remove the motor mount nuts and then raise it just enough where you can get small blocks of wood between the motor mounts and the cross member. Once you have the pan loose and the oil pump screen off you may need to turn the crank so the counterweights clear the pan. Make sure you put jack stands under the front cross member. Don't rely on the tires.

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Old 08-01-2015, 02:03 PM
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Default Oil Pan Gasket

HI Joe:

Wow. Thanks for that. I have the car on Jack Stands, using the supports where a jack would go to do a tire change, one on each side to the front end is lifted. Is this a safe place for those stands?

Secondly, I think I can loosen the motor mounts, no problem. Thanks for the advice on that. I am going back to O'Reilley's or Pep Boys anyway to get a 15/16" socket and a torque bar to spin the dampener, so I can spin the crankshaft that way, I suspect.

I very much appreciate your patience and teachings. I have never done this before, and I am learning fast! (I am an engineer so I am loving this!)
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Old 08-01-2015, 02:15 PM
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Normally the car is jacked up using the bumper and bumper brackets or the floor mounts behind the front wheels. I prefer to use the front cross member behind the radiator support. It doesn't hurt to have jack stands in multiple places. Put chocks behind the rear wheels so it doesn't roll and use the emergency brake if it holds. I'm overly cautious when I have to get under a car. When you get the pan off put a straight edge on the flange and make sure it's perfectly flat where the bolt holes are. They tend to get overtightened and warp. If they are not flat use a hammer and something hard to flatten them out. Use RTV sealant on both sides of the pan gasket. Do not overtighten the bolts. Torque them to spec which is about 10-15 ft/lbs. Good luck.

John
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Old 08-01-2015, 03:05 PM
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Default Oil Pan Gasket

I have her up on stands, rear wheel chocked......drained the oile and removed filter. I found the motor mounts but I am not seeing any flat area to try to raise up the motor.

I do see a small spot about 2" square next to the oil pan, but no other area.....can you post a pic of the area(s) to which you are referring?
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Old 08-01-2015, 05:01 PM
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I use a cherry picker to hoist the engine from on top. It's safer that way. Pay close attention to your radiator when lifting.

Since you are removing the pan, why not inspect the oil pickup and oil pump? Clean out the crap in the bottom of your pan before returning it to the block.

I use Permatex Black on the gasket: Make SURE all mating surfaces are clean and oil-free. I use lacquer thinner on a rag to clean the block and pan mating surfaces. Put a THIN coat of Permatex on the gasket and let it cure for at least 15 minutes.

As said, if your oil pan holes are not flat, get a hammer and pound them back into position. Put a thin coat of Permatex on the pan AND on the block.

Sealing is accomplished by your gasket sealer, not the bolts. Degrease and dry the bolts. Use Loctite (blue) on all your bolt threads. Oil pan bolts do not need to be tightened past 'snug'. I think the manual wants fifteen foot pounds, which is not enough to squash the gasket or distort the oil pan. Even though the bolts may feel loose, let the Loctite take care of the bolts and the Permatex seal the gasket. Too much gasket sealer is worse than not enough because it gets into your engine parts.
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Old 08-01-2015, 07:44 PM
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Default Oil Pan Gasket

All that is great. I could not seem to figure out a safe way to raise from the bottom. Going to see if I can borrow or rent an engine hoist.

Yes, I agree, if I am going to do that, then might as well go all the way and clean everything up.

Ok, stay tuned!
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Old 08-02-2015, 10:47 PM
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Default Oil Pan Gasket

Ok, got it figured out. Did a practice run. Getting a person to help this week and it should be done! Thanks for all the direction and guidance!
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:47 AM
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It's a good idea to plan things out first before just diving into it. Don't be surprised if your pan is loaded with sludge. Most cars of that era were not properly maintained and the oil wasn't nearly as good as it is today. Make sure you clean out the oil pump screen and I would agree with Dave that you should inspect the oil pump closely. It wouldn't hurt to replace it since they are pretty inexpensive.

John
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Old 08-03-2015, 11:59 PM
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Default Oil Pan Gasket

Joe, that is exactly what I am doing. As a matter of fact, since the oil pan has a dent in it, I am ordering a nice, new clean pan, gasket & oil pump.

I have a local classic Ford parts person who can get me both components by the end of the week. My bother will come over and give me a hand, and off we go! Hopefully this should stop at least one of the leaks!

PS: I drained the crank case and found the oil was a black as it gets...so I bet the pan is just full of sludge and all kinds of crap.
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