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  #1  
Old 09-16-2012, 11:07 AM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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Default carburetor choice

OK, my next question for you gents is this. What carb is a good size/model, etc for my setup? I want good throttle response and power without going over kill.

My 1959 T-bird set up is a 390 with C4AE-6090g heads (Valves 2.02, 1.55 inch - port size 2.34X1.34 Ex port size 1.84X1.28, FPA headers with dual 2.5 inch exhaust. My trans is a close ratio 4 speed toploader. Rear end will be somewhere between a 3.55ish to a 3.9ish.

I currently have the stock autolite 4100 series 600cfm? I hear that is a good carb, but will it provide enough flow for my slightly more than stock setup? I will eventually go to a Edelbrock performance RPM manifold.

If I stay with this carb I have a good local mechanic that will rebuild it for $225, is that reasonable?

thx in advance, Dave J
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  #2  
Old 09-16-2012, 11:20 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Originally Posted by davidmij View Post

I currently have the stock autolite 4100 series 600cfm? I hear that is a good carb, but will it provide enough flow for my slightly more than stock setup? I will eventually go to a Edelbrock performance RPM manifold.

If I stay with this carb I have a good local mechanic that will rebuild it for $225, is that reasonable?
TWO HUNDRED AND HOW MANY DUCKETS?!?

...gawd...

IMO, the 1.12 carb you have now will more than suffice for a street engine. You will most likely have to fatten it for the headers.

This carb is easy to rebuild yourself.
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  #3  
Old 09-16-2012, 11:57 AM
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jopizz jopizz is offline
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It costs about $17.00 for the rebuild kit and takes maybe a couple hours to disassemble, clean and reassemble. That's highway robbery.

John
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Old 09-17-2012, 10:27 AM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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Thx guys, I thought it seemed a little high. I'm guessing mechanics charge about $90 and hour. 2 hours max labor and $17 for the kit.
I could buy the kit, but I know next to nothing about carbs, and at our altitude of 7000 feet it probably would need some tweaking from any (standard) online instructions (or my shop manual) which I believe had the same basic carb for the 352 the car came with.

There's a guy on craigslist in Albuquerque that sells refurbished carbs. Albuquerque is a mile high, (just like Denver). I think I'll see what he can do price wise? He has a 90 day warranty.

Dave
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  #5  
Old 09-17-2012, 10:40 AM
KULTULZ
 
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If unable to rebuild yourself, I would consider PONY CARBS.

Make sure you inform them of the engine upgrades.
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  #6  
Old 09-17-2012, 05:47 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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Thanks Gary, sadly Pony Carbs is out of business. I went to their home page and tried calling them but the numbers didn't work. I was reading this link and at the bottom is the bad news. It's from 2009 - strange that their web page is still up.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/86...rburetors.html

Sounds like the Autolite 4100 carb itself is a good one to keep. I have no idea what they are talking about with the "spread bore" verses "square bore". Hopefully I can find someone good to get mine rebuilt.

Dave J
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  #7  
Old 09-18-2012, 02:49 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Originally Posted by davidmij View Post

Thanks Gary, sadly Pony Carbs is out of business. I went to their home page and tried calling them but the numbers didn't work. I was reading this link and at the bottom is the bad news. It's from 2009 - strange that their web page is still up.


Quote:
Pony Carburetors went out of business late last year when the owner passed away. Even though their website is still up, they will not return any phone calls, answer emails, and their Ebay store is gone. There are other carburetor shops out there that restores Autolite carburetors, but the "Spreadbore" was something only Pony Carburetors did.
... sheesh ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmij continues

Sounds like the Autolite 4100 carb itself is a good one to keep. I have no idea what they are talking about with the "spread bore" verses "square bore". Hopefully I can find someone good to get mine rebuilt.

Dave J
The AUTOLITE was one of the best and was designed by HOLLEY for FOMOCO, first year 1957. It was only dropped when FORD had to comply with more strict emission regulations.

PONY CARBS "SPREADBORE" was a specially modified 4100 that was meant for street use as 4100 cores are drying up.

It is a keeper, even if you don't use it.

Also, GOOGLE HOLLEY 4010 carburetor. This is an advanced design.
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:40 PM
davidmij davidmij is offline
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I think I found a really good company to help me do my carburetor, Mikes Carburetor Parts. http://www.carburetor-parts.com/
Here's a link for several videos on youtube that they post to help you do just about any job.; http://www.youtube.com/user/MikesCar.../videos?view=0

Now I have a question. My car starts beautifully every time. However, after I drive it for about 10 minutes the idle goes up and it won't kick down. It's like the choke is working backwards. I have the heat riser hooked up to the choke from the exhaust manifold. Also, when I get the headers what do I do with the choke heat riser inlet?

thx in advance, Dave J
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  #9  
Old 09-21-2012, 01:10 PM
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jopizz jopizz is offline
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Have you looked to see if your choke is wide open after it gets hot. The 4100 has two idle adjustments. A fast idle screw on the passenger side of the carb that hits the choke cam and a slow idle screw on the driver side. If your choke is wide open the fast idle adjustment should be off and it should only use the slow idle screw. You may have to back that screw off to slow the idle. It's also possible that your anti-stall dashpot is set too high.

John
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  #10  
Old 09-21-2012, 01:59 PM
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Also get a can of aerosol choke cleaner and clean all of the linkages and make sure it operates freely.

If you go to tubular headers, most convert to a fully electric choke. If this proves not satisfactory (electric chokes usually are quick to open fully), you can add a fabricated choke stove to one of the header tubes. I will show you how when the time comes.

Do you have a Shop Manual (FORD)? It will describe choke operation and adjustments.
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