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Beautiful Job !!Comment
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Installed the Pertronix and a new coil today in hopes that it would correct the drivability issue I’ve been having. Other than the engine starting faster and a bit snappier throttle response, it appears to behave just as before.
For those that don’t know my situation; the car doesn’t seem to have much power. The car bogs down at wide open throttle or under a load and doesn’t seem to get a chance to downshift. In D1, she upshifts fine, but under a load, she’s very sluggish. Would the vacuum advance have anything to do with this? I wanted to replace vacuum advance, but one of the two screws broke and now I can’t get it off.
I knew once I popped off the cap that my issue wasn’t the points, cap or rotor because they look brand new.
The weights moved freely. Per the instructions, I cleaned the surface with acetone to ensure the igniter box has a good ground.
I properly gapped the unit using the clear shim provided in the kit.
Here’s the old coil. I’m a little confused with the terminology. The coil is not marked – or +. Instead, one side is marked “DIST” and the other “BAT”. I would think the side marked “DIST” is + and the side marked “BAT” is -, but why would they call the negative side battery? Anyway, on the new coil I hooked up the pink resister wire from the ignition switch to the + side and the black wire from the igniter to the – side per the instructions, so it should be OK.
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The car has a new tank, sending unit, fuel lines, fuel pump and the carburetor is about 2 years old. The plugs, wires, rotor and cap look pretty new, but I did not install them.Comment
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Please visit my site to see Penelope's new distributor. CLICK HERE
As we discussed, what's the slop in your timing chain? Did you rotate the crank by hand to check it?
I know your odometer shows 50k. If it does have 150k, there is a remote possibility that your timing chain has jumped a tooth. That's why you need to check degrees of slop.
There are other reasons for a sluggish engine besides the distributor advance:
Tired and leaky valves
Low compression
Low vacuum
worn camshaft
restricted air intake
restricted exhaust (including a stuck heat riser valve)
restricted fuel delivery (including semi-clogged gas filter or pinched hose)
mis-adjusted transmission linkage at your intake manifold.
Most of these topics are covered in the Shop Manual. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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Please visit my site to see Penelope's new distributor. CLICK HERE
As we discussed, what's the slop in your timing chain? Did you rotate the crank by hand to check it?
I know your odometer shows 50k. If it does have 150k, there is a remote possibility that your timing chain has jumped a tooth. That's why you need to check degrees of slop.
There are other reasons for a sluggish engine besides the distributor advance:
Tired and leaky valves
Low compression
Low vacuum
worn camshaft
restricted air intake
restricted exhaust (including a stuck heat riser valve)
restricted fuel delivery (including semi-clogged gas filter or pinched hose)
mis-adjusted transmission linkage at your intake manifold.
Most of these topics are covered in the Shop Manual. - DaveComment
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Buy a new vacuum advance from Rock Auto. Yours looks terrible. Most of them don't last fifty years. While you're at it, get two of the 'weaker' advance springs. This distributor needs help. I suggest you pull the distributor out and inspect the bearings while you're at it.
It's not unusual for these screws to break. The housing is aluminum which reacts with steel screws (I use stainless or brass). You may need to grind the screws off and re-tap the holes. It's important to get to the bottom, and my post shows you how. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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Please visit my site to see Penelope's new distributor. CLICK HERE
As we discussed, what's the slop in your timing chain? Did you rotate the crank by hand to check it?
I know your odometer shows 50k. If it does have 150k, there is a remote possibility that your timing chain has jumped a tooth. That's why you need to check degrees of slop.
There are other reasons for a sluggish engine besides the distributor advance:
Tired and leaky valves
Low compression
Low vacuum
worn camshaft
restricted air intake
restricted exhaust (including a stuck heat riser valve)
restricted fuel delivery (including semi-clogged gas filter or pinched hose)
mis-adjusted transmission linkage at your intake manifold.
Most of these topics are covered in the Shop Manual. - Dave
I heard someone makes a spacer for the heat riser valve. Does anyone know where I can get one?
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Mac's sells the spacer for $22.95. I'm gonna pick one up.
Part# B9AE-9A427-SPAttached FilesComment
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These folks have them ( http://www.concoursparts.com/ ) - item B9AE-9A427-SP but you already have what you need.
Cut the vane out, cut the shaft in the center then pull the shafts out and weld up the holes - viola - spacer (and you already know it is the right size)
I'm with Dave on the linkage but with that different carb than original it might be hard to get it adjusted just right - wouldn't know where to start myself.
Are the secondaries vacuum operated on that carb or mechanical?
After seeing your brake work though - I know you'll find the problem.....just a matter of when. I'll be following along to see what it is.
EricComment
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I simply cut the center out of my Heat Riser Valve with a cutting torch. Then I left the holes filled (they're pretty solid). Mine has the counterweight and spring on the outside which looks stock, but nothing moves. I also agree that, you already have one that you're going to throw out. Save twenty bucks and use it.
If you don't have a torch, most muffler shops would be glad to cut it out for you. Nothing here affects emissions.
The heat riser valve speeds the engine warming process. Without it, your engine will still get hot, but 1/2-mile later. In this day of 'fuel economy' being king, the benefits of a flow-thru exhaust far outweigh faster warmup.
BTW, as I mentioned over the phone, when your heat riser valve sticks shut, not only is the exhaust restricted but your cooling system must get rid of the excess exhaust heat crossing over your intake manifold. An unrestricted exhaust carries the heat away. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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It's been just over a year now since I took home my bird. In a year I've learned so much and am very thankful to the community and the good friends I've made.
This old bird has tested and fought me every step of the way, but with every turn of a screw and twist of a bolt, we've grown closer. I can't wait till the snow melts away and Spring time finally comes, so I can get her up and running again.Comment
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Marcelo, you have sacrificed life and limb in a great effort to resurrect Lucille, and it shows. She looks fabulous. I don't know of anyone who has shown more enthusiasm and a hunger to learn this hobby than you. WE have benefited from your tire and wheel fitment trials and your power disk brake findings. The list goes on as you have freely shared your resources and restoration pictures with everyone on our forum.
I am humbled in the belief that this is exactly why Alexander started Squarebirds.org, so friendships like yours can be shared with Thunderbird enthusiasts and restorers all over the world. I am richer for it. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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Aw-shucks, Dave. Thanks for the kind words. Alexander created a special place here that is really not like any other.Comment
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I believe the main difference is that everyone on this board just wants to help their neighbor, and is mature enough not to "flame" and attack other members.
I'd say that is pretty darn rare in this day and age.Comment
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