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  #1  
Old 12-09-2010, 01:50 AM
spujia spujia is offline
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Default Rebuilt 430 Runs Hot

Greetings,

Back again! I just rebuilt my 430 in my '60, everything was replaced except the radiator, heater core (and starter). I had the radiator repaired because the upper hose connection weld had broken cleanly off. The radiator guy said the radiator was in good shape. I replaced the temp sensor on the rebuild too.

Anyway, when I idle the engine, which I just got running, in cool weather the temp gauge gets well into the "P" in "Temp", and I get scared and shut her down. I have a 15lb cap. I see a small bit of water ooze out of the connection to the heater core; one hose to the heater is warm, the other cool...

Questions:
1. Can a bad heater core cause enough flow restriction to cause the engine to overheat?
2. Where can I find a high-volume replacement radiator that will fit right in, and a replacement fan with more blades?

Thanks!

Steve
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Last edited by spujia : 12-09-2010 at 01:55 AM. Reason: Forgot to mention year of the car...
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  #2  
Old 12-09-2010, 01:53 AM
spujia spujia is offline
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Also...

Which hose goes to the top of the heater? The one from the water pump or the one from the manifold?
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  #3  
Old 12-09-2010, 09:25 AM
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partsetal partsetal is offline
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There are other things to consider also; Extra friction from the new rings in a newly rebuilt motor, did the rebuilder replace the diverters behind the water pump, and are you running with or without the auxilliary 430 thermostats, is timing correct etc.
Carl
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  #4  
Old 12-09-2010, 09:41 AM
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Default Rebuilt 430 Runs Hot

Hi Steve,

I will let our good techies answer your questions regarding the heater hose connections. I would have to do some research to answer that, and some of our members know that information off the top of their heads.

As for replacing your radiator, if it checks out good, why replace it? However, there are replacement radiators available and fans with more blades. Some have gone the aluminum route, but I think our radiators cool better than aluminum does. I think I read where simplyconnected recently mentioned that. Talk with the various people at our parts vendors. Like Bob at Bob's Bird House or Don at the Bird Nest. You can get a five bladed fan from one of the parts houses. I got my six bladed flex fan from Autozone as I recall. That and a metal fan shroud from a 1963 Galaxie I bought off of eBay keeps Rose running cool. You can get a plastic type shroud from Dearborn, I think it is. Click on the link below my signature and check out the Technical Resource Library. The answers to many questions that come up are often found there. Earlier in the Fall, I drove her in a parade at 5mph and she stayed as cool as a cucumber and it was in the 80's or low 90's.
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  #5  
Old 12-09-2010, 10:31 AM
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1. A new motor can tend to run on the warmer side do to all the new parts "wearing" in to place & seating themselves. The coolant diverters behind each waterpump ear (going to the block) are HUGE!!! You have to have them to get the correct coolant flow through the heads/block. Did you install a new waterpump & get the correct thermostat installed correctly?

And no, a blocked heater core will not cause an engine to overheat.

2. Did you have the OE radiator cleaned out and flow tested? I know a few members have install the newer 6-blade fans on their Squarebirds with good results. On my 430cid '60 Bird w/ A/C, I still have the stock 5-blade fan- But I recently added a steel fan shroud off a 1961-63 Ford Fairlane/Galaxie Big V-8 car. It did require some moding, but it was nothing any shadetree guy couldn't do on a weekend. Use the search function above to find the thread on the steel fan shrouds.

-Good luck,
Jon in TX.
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  #6  
Old 12-09-2010, 01:50 PM
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Your engine didn't overheat when new, and it shouldn't now. I assume your gauge is accurate.

You have a real copper radiator. It can be flow checked. It can be recored, if necessary. Aluminum doesn't transfer heat as well as copper and is much harder to repair.

Head gaskets installed backwards will cause a new engine to overheat. The word, "FRONT" is plainly marked, and the square edge should be evident in the top-front corner (between the head and block).

Manufacturers try to balance water flow by the water holes in the head gaskets. Cool water enters the front of the block in car engines. Then it flows across each cylinder, and goes up the rear of both heads, and into the intake manifold (where the thermostat is situated at the hottest point). Head gaskets have tiny or no holes in the front, and much larger holes at the rear cylinders.

If the gaskets are backwards, water flow never gets to the back cylinders (3, 4, 7, & 8).

I agree with Jon. Most of the time, your heater valve shuts off water flow.

Whether heater inlet goes in the top or bottom matters little, as long as hot water flows when you call for heat.

Check your heat riser valve on your RH exhaust manifold. Make sure it isn't stuck shut, or your radiator will deal with half your exhaust heat. - Dave
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Old 12-09-2010, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Check your heat riser valve on your RH exhaust manifold. Make sure it isn't stuck shut, or your radiator will deal with half your exhaust heat. - Dave
The 430cid cars didn't have this feature....
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Old 12-09-2010, 05:18 PM
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Yeah, I forgot about that. The 430 is the only engine without a heat riser.
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  #9  
Old 12-09-2010, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by partsetal View Post
are you running with or without the auxilliary 430 thermostats
Carl
Carl, do you know of a source for the auxilary thermostats? I've never been able to find them so I've been running without them - and running hot!
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  #10  
Old 12-10-2010, 12:17 PM
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Every once in a blue moon NOS ones pop up on Ebay.

They really are only needed for heaters in the colder climate areas. That is why Ford stopped using them in the later Lincoln models...

-Jon in TX.
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