Turn indicators freezing

[jopizz]

Weren't those readings before you changed the voltage regulator. I'd be interested to see if they're the same with the new voltage regulator. Your turn signals go through the sequential unit that's in the trunk. It relies on a motor that needs full voltage to operate. If the voltage drops too much or the motor is weak your turn signals will stop working.

John

[tbirdmike63]

I will check the voltage tomorrow, the turn signals work good, its the turn indicators on the fenders that freeze up when put in gear with the headlights on and other accessories are on. Or is there something wrong with my turn signals thats causing my indicators to freeze up?

[jopizz]

The turn signal motor in the sequential unit also contains the flasher for the turn indicators on the fenders. From there it goes to the turn signal relay which is also contained in the sequential unit. From there it goes to the turn signal switch and then to the fender lights. If it only fails when you have a drop in voltage then I would suspect the turn signal motor/flasher unit.

John

[simplyconnected]

Hey everyone, got another problem here, my turn indicators on my 66, work fine until I turn my headlights on, then the right one freezes and stays on, if I turn something else on like the heater fan or put the brakes on the left one freezes on too, if I rev. the motor it helps, now, the strange thing is, I got a new voltage regulator, I've had my alternator tested and it fine, my alternator belt is tight. I have taken the plug off of the turn indicator relay and cleaned the connections, I am out of ideas, anybody have a clue to what can get my indicators to work properly? Thanks!

Ok, I unplugged every connector I could find in the engine compartment, from the headlights to the firewall, and the problem persists, they work fine till I put the car in drive, the idle drops, then they stop working, it seems like there's not enough power going to everything. I don't know what else to do, I read the schematic, unless it's a connector under the dash, or possibly the indicator relay, Im going to try to get that out to adjust it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

I believe in using 'sound troubleshooting techniques'. I do not throw parts at a problem or change components unless they prove to be 'bad'.

I start at a point where 'it doesn't work' and I let the schematic guide me toward the source as I eliminate possibilities along the way. This technique can be applied to every problem whether it is mechanical or electrical.

By simply unplugging every plug you see, doesn't help. That's like taking every wheel off because one tire is flat. For example, when you took the plug apart for the headlights and turn indicators, what did you see inside the pins? At that point, your headlights and indicator lights couldn't possibly work because they were disconnected. If your fault still existed, do NOT put the plug back together, but follow the wires closer to the source without getting sidetracked.

I never pay attention to someone who says, 'yeah, last time 'it' was (this or that).' That gets you sidetracked. What happens if you have TWO problems? Follow the schematic and test voltages. Your test light or meter will find any problem along the way.

Troubleshooting takes patience and skill. Some don't have either so they must hire a troubleshooter who can focus. We don't have the car in front of us but you do. All we know is what you report, whether it is fact or not.

Let's start again with a common problem. What voltage is your battery at when you turn things on? Do you have another good battery to swap temporarily? And as said, give your ground wires a shake. Make sure they are not frayed and the ends are tight. Also, make sure your car's body has a solid ground.

[scumdog]

I will check the voltage tomorrow, the turn signals work good, its the turn indicators on the fenders that freeze up when put in gear with the headlights on and other accessories are on. Or is there something wrong with my turn signals thats causing my indicators to freeze up?

I have a similar issue, indicators blink but when I put my foot on the brake-pedal they just 'pulsate' instead of actually blinking.

[Joe Johnston]

Agree check the battery voltages when not running, at idle, revved up, lights on, signals on, and when working or not working. This will determine the supply of power in use.

Also check the voltage at the areas jopizz suggested. Then add a long ground wire back to the battery ground terminal to the ground connections of the sequential unit. This will determine the condition to and from the sequential system.

I am a big believer in solid grounds & feel they cause more issues than poor power supply wires. A bad power feed wire will just short out and burn (not good but usually easy to find) or create a broken connection and cause something not to work. Your lights work, sort of, so they are getting power, but perhaps not enough to them or back to the battery.

Also do you have a solid ground from the engine block to the body, and a solid ground from the battery to the body?

[tbirdmike63]

I just put new battery cables on the car, I have a solid ground from negative to block, I need to check the ground from block to body. I do not have a ground wire going from the battery to the body, didn't have one with the old cables either.

[tbirdmike63]

When you say body, do you mean frame as the same thing?

[Joe Johnston]

No - to the sheet metal body. Usually there is a ground strap somewhere on the back of an engine to the firewall. I do not own a Squarebird, so check your wiring diagrams, but Ford used them on 55-57's and 61-63's. This small strap looks flat un-insulated silver woven wire about 3/8" wide and less than a foot long. That said, any suitable gauge wire bolted in place with clean connections will work, just won't look original.

Bullet birds had a terminal in the middle of the ground cable that bolted to the body and continued to the engine block, so check your manuals to see what you should have.

[jopizz]

When you say body, do you mean frame as the same thing?

Your car should have a ground wire from the back of the engine on the passenger side to a bolt on the blower motor cover.

John

[tbirdmike63]

I thought about buying one of those ground bonding straps and going from my negative post to the frame ground, do you think that would help, or be a waste since I have the block to frame ground? I should clean that ground wire on the firewall, didn't know about that one, it's probably in bad shape.

[jopizz]

It never hurts to have extra ground wires. The more the better.

John

[tbirdmike63]

Good, I will buy 10.......Just kidding!

[tbirdmike63]

OK, I got some numbers now, car off battery 12.79 Volts, idling kinda high 14.60, revving idle 14.60 no change from idle???, idling lights on, 13.69 revving lights on 14.51, in gear idling 14.57, in gear lights on 12.96 slowly dropped down to 12.63, blinkers on 12.50 slowly dropped to 12.41 then to 12.28

With the lights on idling it idled at 13.26 volts, then I revved it and it went up to 14.42

When the car is idling with nothing on, it was at 14.60 volts then I revved it and no change 14.60, but then I turned the lights on and it dropped down to 13.69, then I revved it and it rose to 14.51

[jopizz]

As you can see your volts are going way down with everything on and in drive. Since you said that your alternator tested good and you have a new voltage regulator then my guess is that either the belt is not tight enough ( I know you said it's ok) or your car is idling too low. The spec calls for 475-500 rpm in drive but I usually prefer to be closer to 600 rpm. If you don't have a tach to hook up and set the rpm then you're left with doing it by feel. On the driver side of the carburetor is the curb idle adjustment screw. I would turn it in slightly (maybe 1/8 turn) and check your voltages again in drive with the lights and turn signals on. You want to try and get that over 13 volts. You don't want to boost the idle too high or your car will creep too much in drive and will jump when you put it in gear.

John