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Old 04-16-2018, 04:55 PM
Reg_beagle Reg_beagle is offline
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Default Power window motors?

Just joined the forum, and recently acquired a '58 Tbird hdtp. It has a common issue, which is that the power window motors need to be replaced or rebuilt (have confirmed that the motors are the issue, not breakers, relays, gears, etc.)

Have searched the forum for discussion on this point, but don't see anything applicable. A couple of questions for you members, if I could:

1. Would be willing to pop for new motors even though they are expensive, but it appears that these motors are no longer available from the usual sources (Mac's, Birds Nest, TBird HQ, etc.) I was informed by more than one parts supplier that there was something wrong with the last job lot of these motors, and that they are no longer available from antique parts suppliers. Anyone hear anything about this situation?

2. I am more interested in getting the windows up and down than with originality under the door panel. Has anybody experimented with different window motors that might be an appropriate replacement?
Thanks for your input.
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Old 04-16-2018, 05:19 PM
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jopizz jopizz is offline
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There are instructions in the Technical Resource Library on how to rebuild the motors. As for modern replacements I haven't found any that fit. Most newer window motors have integrated gears whereas the Squarebird motors do not.

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Old 04-16-2018, 10:17 PM
p38fighter p38fighter is online now
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Default Window motor swap

When I built my 62 F100 we used a rebuilt Saturn motor ($30) and modified the regulator frame to accept it. Then we used a GM switch and wire set to power them. I'm sure the TBird switch can be modified since the Saturn motor is only 2 wire.

I'll post a picture as soon as my membership gets straightened out.
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Old 04-17-2018, 01:44 AM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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First of all, are you 100% sure it is the motor? I think I posted a procedure to check the motors by connecting directly to battery voltage. I have found that the majority of problems is with the switch and not the motor. There is a single relay/breaker that controls the power to all of the windows, and the gear box is a stand alone. By bench testing the motor, it eliminates any other possibility.
I serviced/rebuilt all 4 of my window motors and also the 4 power seat motors. I even had a spare motor and rewound the stator by hand and it seems to run fine. I didn't realize that the aftermarket motors have become so scarce and that there was a problem with them. The factor motors are pretty durable and usually just need some cleaning and lubrication.
If you would like me to take a look at your motors and see if I can rebuild them, send a PM and we'll chat and see if we can work something out.
As an added note, a friend had a smaller motor mounted in his car and I think it might be out of an early/mid 60's TBird that was used for the quarter window. It worked fine in his door window and was a direct replacement. These may still be available. I'll include some pictures for my original motors and the smaller motor that was mounted in his car.
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File Type: jpg Motors.jpg (280.9 KB, 44 views)
File Type: jpg Motor1.jpg (245.1 KB, 43 views)
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Old 04-17-2018, 03:30 AM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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I agree with Nyles in that, the way window motors go bad is usually caused by internal dirt mixed with grease. Brushes get stuck in this mess and can no longer move freely. Sometimes the commutator segments are caked.

Be extremely careful as you disassemble your motors because there are fragile parts inside that can break. If you finesse the cases open, they usually separate just fine. Here's the link for the Ford OEM motors... CLICK HERE

For those who use a two-wire motor I have a simple, inexpensive solution using two relays per motor. The relays are those 'ice cube' type, typically used on modern cars. If you can't find them, I can supply a relay with plug-in pig-tail socket-base for $5.50/each +Shipping. Two are required per window motor.

In my circuit, the switches only control relay coils. A separate +12-volt wire is required to feed the relay contacts which in turn feeds the motor power. I put a 10-amp fuse on the +12 wire but you can leave your switches as they are and simply mount the fuse (or breaker) on wire #2 at the relays or in your dash.

The big concern about this is electrical interlock, in case someone pushes the UP and DN buttons at the same time (like kids in the back seat). I have that covered in my schematic which shows two switches that control the same motor. The opposite operation simply energizes both relays which disconnects the motor circuit. The motor won't heat and the fuse won't blow.

This works with your OEM switches (so no change there) and the relays can be mounted next to the motors. Here we go:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2-wireRetrofit-2_146.jpg (126.6 KB, 42 views)
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:44 AM
Reg_beagle Reg_beagle is offline
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Thank you for all of your suggestions. I have checked all switches, relays etc., but will go over them again. The four-wire motor I have in hand from car was crudely disassembled by previous owner and stator and armature wires are broken, etc., so I expect that it will need to be replaced. (If only the previous owner had seen the how-to in the resource library here.)

This is my first TBird, so have a lot to learn. Will let you know what I can figure out. Again, appreciate all of your suggestions. Will followup.
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:53 AM
Reg_beagle Reg_beagle is offline
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Nyles, those are some beautiful motors. With your suggestion re. the later two wire motors and the schematic from simplyconnected, perhaps I can figure out a solution.
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