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  #51  
Old 12-01-2016, 12:09 PM
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I would start at the main connector that goes through the firewall. Disconnect it and make sure all the contacts look good and nothing is burnt. If everything is good there then it's most likely your fuel and temp gauges since you say that your oil gauge works.

John
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  #52  
Old 12-01-2016, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
I would start at the main connector that goes through the firewall. Disconnect it and make sure all the contacts look good and nothing is burnt. If everything is good there then it's most likely your fuel and temp gauges since you say that your oil gauge works.

John
The temp guage did "work" ( when grounded see here http://squarebirds.org/vbulletin/sho...16&postcount=1 ) not sure what changed as it stopped "working" before i pulled the gauges out
I've never seen the fuel guage move.

might have to pull the main plug

Can you get to the back of the gauges without pulling the cluster out? When I had the face off I noticed two screws down there
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  #53  
Old 12-02-2016, 02:09 PM
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ok so i went out to the garage when i put kiddo down for a nap.

removed all three gauges



turned the ignition on
6v at the oil guage, 0 fuel, 0 temp



so now i need to decide how I'm going to fix this. easy or hard way.

hard: pull the stupid dash out again and find where the wires are busted. - really don't like this idea even tho its probably the right thing to do.
easy: make a daisy chain with male/ female connectors to take the good 6v and split it between the 3 gauges and abandon the other two wires in place ( tape off the ends so they cant touch anything and cause problems)




tested the gauges while i was there





also made a little test light with a bulb and some leads i had left over from a relay installs

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  #54  
Old 12-02-2016, 04:49 PM
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Nice that you can reach the terminals from the front- I was not able to do that.

If you look at the wiring diagram all three of the "hot" wires from the CVR are spliced together in the harness. So "chaining" them together like you suggested isn't a bad idea at all.
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  #55  
Old 12-02-2016, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post

Nice that you can reach the terminals from the front- I was not able to do that.

i would be able to pull them further but i put coloured zip ties on them when disassembling so i could keep them straight easier

If you look at the wiring diagram all three of the "hot" wires from the CVR are spliced together in the harness. So "chaining" them together like you suggested isn't a bad idea at all.
right, pretty sure thats what I'm going to do, just won't be factory is all
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Last edited by Cwcb08 : 12-02-2016 at 05:20 PM.
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  #56  
Old 12-02-2016, 09:44 PM
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Good for you, Cody! You finally busted your meter out. (My Fluke measured 5.98 but I'm sure my leads had some resistance.) I also love the test light you made. It may look very dim on six volts but that's ok. It's a 'visual' for you to actually see how much voltage there is (or isn't).

As a caution... Make sure you disconnect your battery until you are done connecting your new wire harness. Too many loose ends that are hard to keep track of can short to ground. I use spade terminals that are insulated, both male and female. Had I known, I would have included some with the bullet terminals I sent.

You're doing great! Keep up the good work. - Dave
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  #57  
Old 12-03-2016, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Good for you, Cody! You finally busted your meter out. pretty easy once i found some time to do it!(My Fluke measured 5.98 but I'm sure my leads had some resistance.) I also love the test light you made. It may look very dim on six volts but that's ok. It's a 'visual' for you to actually see how much voltage there is (or isn't).

As a caution... Make sure you disconnect your battery until you are done connecting your new wire harness. Too many loose ends that are hard to keep track of can short to ground. I use spade terminals that are insulated, both male and female. Had I known, I would have included some with the bullet terminals I sent. fortunatly i have a handful of m/f insulated terminals i bought when i did my little horn button relocate so i will be using them when i build the harness, possibly 2moro but you know how days off go when the "boss" has plans

You're doing great! Keep up the good work. - Dave
as always i appreciate the words of wisdom guys
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  #58  
Old 12-04-2016, 12:24 AM
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What's wrong with these two photos...




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The wires are both hot!

I'm 99.9% sure I didn't mess it up because I removed wires and marked them one at a time so I could reassemble it the same way


After fishing the wires Back and into the other gauges

Bingo!



Strange that when the engine temp went up the fuel gauge went down?



I'll start it again 2moro after it cools off and see what happens, if it does that again
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  #59  
Old 12-04-2016, 07:07 AM
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There's nothing wrong with both pictures.
If the sending unit is not connected to one side of the gauge, the path is not complete to ground so both sides of your gauge will be hot. Now, you come along with a voltage tester that IS tied to ground so rightfully it will read the same voltage on both gauge terminals. There is no load, not even the meter because it is too sensitive.

Resistors (sending units ARE resistors) work the same way. If there is no load (no current flow), voltage will measure exactly the same on both sides of that resistor. That's why it's important to use a test light, because the bulb causes current to flow. The test bulb is a load which causes the resistor to oppose or resist current flow.

Your gauges have nothing to do with each other in their operation.

Lesson (in reverse): Let's say you have a circuit that keeps blowing fuses because a branch wire is shorted to the body somewhere, but we don't know where. If you attach the test light leads across the empty fuse holder, the light would shine until you remove the short. That's because the circuit is already shorted to ground. Simply start unplugging harnesses until the light goes out. Usually, wires and lamp holders that are exposed to the outside fail first because of corrosion or damage, so start there. Pay attention to the history... If the problem happened just after setting the dash, look for a pinched wire under a bolt or between sheet metal, and so on...

So in this exercise the bulb itself IS the resistor and it limits current from frying wires. If you put your meter across the bulb while it's shining you would see a voltage drop. With the ground removed, the bulb would go dark but voltage on both sides of the bulb would measure exactly the same, hot on both sides. If you have questions, fire away. - Dave
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  #60  
Old 12-04-2016, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
There's nothing wrong with both pictures.
Well maybe "wrong" wasn't the right word. Between the six wires 3 should be hot ( 6v from the cvr ) 1 hot at each guage. Well I had 2 hot from the cvr at the fuel guage.

I figured this out by grounding one side of my meter to the body and probing the connectors while I was trying to decide what wires came from the sending units and what I was going to abandon when I made my new harness from the good 6v at the oil guage.

Anyway one more issue mostly solved, once the new wheel cylinders come in this week and I install them I think I'll be ready to take it down and get a "pre safety" to find out what else ( hopefully nothing ) it needs to be put on the road!
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