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Wiring done, replacing the corrugated sheath with braided. I used braided sheath throughout the car, and the Russell Pro Classic hose matches it nicely.
Although I've never done it before, I put the kit emblem on the dash. I figure that this is such a substantial improvement, and the emblems match the OE fairly well, so I'll give it a try.Attached FilesComment
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Member, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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I'm still getting a rapid blink of the LED on the ECU along with an O2 error and currently working through the issue on the FAST forum. They insisted that I re-do my power and ground wires to connect directly to the battery posts, the stated reason that the battery is the filter between the ECU harness and the alternator/ coil etc.
They also pointed out that the 12v switched connection needs to be a real good circuit.
Yesterday I took off work to tackle this, making a parts list, taking a trip to O's and then doing the install. Here's what this mess looks like now, gone are my neat battery connections and fuses in one box.
I also re-did the 12v switched circuit. I had been using the old coil wire (I bypassed the stock resistor wire long ago) and found that to have a 0.1v loss. I have an auxiliary wire directly off the ignition switch that only shows a 0.05v loss so used that instead.
I also redid the fuel pump control wiring using the negative side switching from the ECU. That "primes" the system at key-on for a few seconds then turns the pump off if the engine is not running. I pass this signal through my inertia switch as an extra precaution and the circuit works nicely.
After all that I started a new tune, readjusted the idle stop and went for a short drive to fill the tank. I'm still getting the same error indications, and the engine isn't running smoothly at all. It's using a ton of gas and belching CO and other stinky crap from the exhaust. I had both overhead doors open in my basement garage while I was making adjustments and the emissions were so high both CO detectors (1st and second floors) went off in the house. There is no HVAC connection between my garage and the house, and the first and second floor units are independent of each other. That was 16 hours ago and I still have a **** headache.Comment
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I would check your O2 sensor. Even though it's new it could still be bad. You should be able to test it with a voltmeter.
JohnJohn Pizzi - Squarebirds Administrator
Thunderbird Registry #36223
jopizz@squarebirds.org 856-779-9695
https://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htmComment
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Steve, this is a 'forest for the trees' problem.
All of these devices can be tested using your meter. I'm with John, start with the oxygen sensor. Determine if the heater is getting 12 volts. These are usually the two black wires; one is ground the other is power. Then, put one prod on a solid ground and measure the DATA wire. You should do this with the engine hot because O2 sensors don't work until it gets to ~700 degrees F.
You are looking for a range between +.9 vdc and zero. During normal operation the range should 'hunt' around .45 volts.
If you're getting responses like this, the sensor is good even though you're running rich or lean. The next area to scrutinize is your Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT). This will tell if you have a vacuum leak or possibly another sensor is faulty.
To gain a good understanding of what's going on and how STFT works, CLICK HERE. Watch the video a few times. This will get your troubleshooting juices going and hopefully you will solve your problems. If you have questions let's talk about it. BTW, don't rule out any exhaust leaks. It will make your sensors think the engine is running lean. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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I measured voltage at the O2 sensor connection and found 0 at the orange wire, which is supposed to be 12v power as switched through the harness relay. This same circuit powers all four injectors.
So I started to test for continuity. As you recall I mounted my ECU under the dash, basically above the driver's left leg. I could not find the orange wire in the dash-end of the sensor sheath, so started to undo the sheath, finding the wire cut several inches into it. The other end next to the relay was also cut, but very short as not to be noticeable.
Evidently what had happened was that I had stretched the harness and zip-tied it into place to keep it away from the brake and gas pedals. Somehow I had cut the wire, probably when I trimmed the tie that holds the relay in place. And, when I did that, the remainder of the orange wire retracted itself into the sheath.
The whole thing makes me feel fairly stupid.
I repaired the wire and now I'm back on the road.
Once I get this tuned nicely I'm going to re-do the power wiring to utilize my power box as before, and see if that has ANY effect, at all, on the operation.Comment
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Next is adjusting the AF ratios for good idle, smooth operation and good economy. My wife is very sensitive to smells, and the garage is in the basement, so I want to keep emissions low, and I think that goes hand-in-hand with good economy anyway.
Through the FAST forum I was given some suggestions and pointed to this link: http://www.safrtool.com/SAFR-AFR-values.asp
I had my settings leaned out to 14.6 idle and cruise, 14 for WOT. I had to increase the ACCEL FUEL to 7 to avoid bogging. Now that I'm actually have a working feedback loop my idle is surging, so I'm going to change the settings, starting at:
Idle 13.6
Cruise 14.1
WOT 12.5
I'll reset the ACCEL FUEL to 0 then adjust it up as needed on my next run. Then I'll incrementally increase the three ratios to achieve my goals.Comment
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Call those tech guys at FAST and let them know what you found. They (like us) rarely hear when someone finds a solution. - DaveMember, Sons of the American Revolution
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.
"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
From: Royal Oak, MichiganComment
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How did you route your hoses from the tank forward?
I am installing the same pickup/pump (found out about it from your thread!) in my '66 that will be using fox harness/computer on '92 460.
BTW, Looks really sweet!Comment
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The factory fuel line is 3/8" steel and is routed from the tank to the engine bay on the driver's side, just inside the rocker panel. The 3/16" brake line runs alongside it. I had replaced both in-kind several months prior. I ran a third steel line, 1/4", for the fuel return, using steel clamps.Comment
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Last Saturday I started the car up and it started hard, taking more than a quick turn of the key to fire. I had been working on another issue over several weeks and it was time to do good wash and get all the grease and hand prints off the paint. I left it idling while I washed it, starting with under the hood. All the while it was surging slightly and I was thinking to myself what I needed to do to get a smooth idle.
It turns out that somehow my AF ratio at idle had been changed- with all the stuff going on I must have fiddled with it and forgot. I spent a bit of time experimenting with the best idle quality, changing rpm and AF, not just trying to change the numbers to what they were before but going through the trial and error process, paying careful attention to what the engine liked.
650 rpm seems to be where it's most happy. I went up and down on the AF at idle and settled on 13.6, same as I was at before. 13.7 I get surging and 13.6 I don't. 13.5 it just doesn't seem to run as smooth, I can't really describe it.Comment
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As many here know, I've had issues with lifters and such that put the EFI tuning aspect of this project on hold. Now with my internals issues solved I'm back to it. The EFI system isn't living up to its promise of smooth driveability and good fuel economy. The engine runs rough and my mpg is below ten.
Talking with guys on the cpgnation forum, I'm being pointed to replacing the intake manifold with a single plane. In the old school carburetor world, for a cruiser rarely seeing 3500 rpm, this is a terrible choice.
The FAST website for the system that I purchased specifically says NO intake manifold change.
The FAST folks have responded to my emails and told me to try an open spacer under the throttle body. $80 and a week later, I installed this and it made no difference whatsoever.
There are only two single plane intakes available for the FE engine for this configuration. Offenhauser 6148 is advertised as race only. I can't even find a picture of one never mind measurements to check for hood clearance. Summit promises delivery in March 2017. The only place I can find that carries one is a race boat supplier.
That leaves the Edelbrock 2936 "Victor". It is 6.49" tall vs my current setup which is 5.75" with spacers. I've already raised my factory air cleaner up at least 1/2" to clear the taller Pertronix distributor (also required due to this conversion).
I'm disappointed with FAST for advertising NO intake change required. I probably would have stayed with a carburetor had I known, or they may have been able to sell me their more expensive system with 8 injectors mounted on their intake.Comment
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