Front Wheel Studs length

[sagembox]

Hello, can anyone tell me the length of the wheel bolts on the front axle? And are there some longer available? I need 15mm (approximatly 0,6 inch) more. Or maybe convert to nuts in the drum and fix the wheel with bolts.
The reason is because i have to put spacers on.
Thanks for your answers!

Regards from germany
Markus

[simplyconnected]

Markus, these wheel studs are available at many places. Here is one CLICK HERE

Your car was made using 'inch' sizes and the wheel studs are 1/2" in diameter with 20 threads per inch. The standard length is 1-5/8" (or 41.275mm long). The same studs are used on the front and rear. They can be removed by knocking out with a hammer. To install, simple enter the stud from behind and use the nut to draw the stud all the way home.

Extra long studs are available. - Dave

[sagembox]

Dave, thank you vergessen mich!
Do you have me a hot tip where to find longer versions of the studieren?

Regards
Markus

[Tbird1044]

I also had to add some 1/4" spacers on the front, and thought this would be a no brainer. A month later I was still fighting it. The problem I ran into, was the knurled part of the new studs was always a loose fit in the hub and instead of pressing in, they just fell in. I tried several manufacturers and they were all the same. I know, you're thinking the holes in my hubs must be oversized. Nope. I even called the tech team on the stud manufacturer and they gave me the specs. What they quoted me, easily allowed the knurled section to be undersized with their plus/minus tolerances. I tried Dorman 610-444, Dorman 610-519 and Wagner BD125969. I also tried a set I found at Pep Boys and they had the same loose fit. To make a long story short, I ended up with studs from Summit Racing that were Moser MSR-8010 (1/2-20X3", RH thd, .625" knurl). I ended up putting a nut on the studs and cutting them to length. That worked fine. Another option is the MSR-8250 which is 1.938" in length. Not quite long enough for me since I wanted to make sure I had a full nut on the stud. It was very close though. Believe me, I never thought changing studs would be this much of a challenge. Good Luck
Nyles

[simplyconnected]

Those of us who retrofit front disk brakes end up with two drums we can no longer use, both loaded with studs. I have pounded out a few and used them. - Dave

[sagembox]

Nyles, thanks a lot!
I have just ordered the studs, these are exactly that what i need.

Regards
Markus

[sagembox]

The studs are delivered!
The next issue is to push them out. Could anyone tell me a trick how to solve? I have a 5T press, but during pressing the drum deform a little bit and I stopped further pressing. Should i have to heat the drum up?
Please help

Thanks and regards
Markus

[Tbird1044]

Markus:
On the front drums, the center hub can be removed from the drum. The brake drum registers on the machined center fit and can get tight from rust etc. A little WD40 or heat usually helps to get it to release. This makes it a lot easier to press out the studs as you can use a large socket or pipe as a backup when pressing the stud.
I would also recommend cutting the studs to length prior to installing them. It's a lot easier
Nyles

[simplyconnected]

You're making this job much harder than it should be. Broken or short studs DO NOT need a press on either the front hubs OR rear axle flanges. A simple hammer blow or two will send the old stud right out the back.

A press is the worst tool to use.
The studs have a swage that simply stops the stud from turning in the round, smooth hole. It's not a precision press fit but it works because those little lines in the stud are designed to upset (fold over) as the friction becomes greater. - Dave