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  #11  
Old 06-25-2018, 06:23 PM
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Hello John

I purchased a TDC tool but unfortunately they sent me the wrong size. Instead I verified the Timing marks by rotating the crank by hand until I could feel the compression against my finger in number 1 cyl. I placed a wooden dowel into the cylinder and could tell when the cylinder stopped the upstroke and slight pause and began the power stroke. The markings were exactly at 0 on the harmonic Balancer. A little primitive but I did not want to start pulling off valve covers and from what I have read, not sure if really necessary. Correct me if I'm wrong please.


Using the timing light , when I get near 6 to 12 BTDC, the engine runs crap. When I can see the Timing mark. around approx 6 to 8 inches from the marks on the balancer Guessing 20 to 25 BTDC, the engine sounds great but a slight pinging sound. I am also getting about 18hg of vacuum at that point. If I try to retard the timing to eliminate the ping, the engine starts to sound crap again. Sure sounds like the timing marks are off or could it be the carb. I called Holley tech support last week trying to get the tips on adjusting my carb. The engine and vacuum did not respond well to their instructions. I will go through the tips and checks you all have suggested. I am learning a lot during all this and appreciate all your input. I will keep at it and inform on my progress. Thanks All.
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  #12  
Old 06-25-2018, 07:03 PM
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I doubt your car would even run at 25 degrees BTDC. I have to question your timing marks. Either that or your pointer is way off. Are your timing marks on the pointer or on the balancer? The '62's that I've had all had the timing marks on the pointer and just a raised dot on the balancer as shows in the diagram. The marks only go up to 10 degrees.

John
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  #13  
Old 06-26-2018, 06:30 PM
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I spent 2 hours last night and could not get anywhere. When I got the timing sounding fair, with the help of a vacuum gauge, I could not restart the car. I had to retard the timing slightly just to be able to start it. And any acceleration under load causes the engine to struggle and stall. If I try to bring the idle down when warm the engine wants to stall. I am thinking of taking the carb in to have it looked at. The shop suggested some alternatives to the one I'm using now but if I decide to not rebuild my carburetor if needed, can anyone suggest some good "plug and play" carbs that would take the place of my Holley 4160, with electric choke. Thanks.
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  #14  
Old 06-26-2018, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinthermals View Post
can anyone suggest some good "plug and play" carbs that would take the place of my Holley 4160, with electric choke. Thanks.
The Edelbrock 1406 is the best replacement carburetor in my opinion. Many on the forum use it including myself and I haven't heard any major complaints.

John
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  #15  
Old 06-26-2018, 07:20 PM
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Ok , Thanks John, I will look into that. Here is a picture of my HB. The white dot that lines up with the riming marks is not visible in this picture. If I retard the Timing and the white mark moves to the right towards the timing marks, the engine stalls. It seems to run best the more I advance the timing.

I just took many pictures of the carb and linkage so putting her back after the carb rebuild will be easier. I discovered to my embarrassment that the distributor capo is cracked in several places. Could that explain my difficulty in getting proper timing? Also the way the cap lines up to the two vertical clips that hold the cap down is suspect. I will try to post more pictures.

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  #16  
Old 06-26-2018, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Give us a background on your engine. How many miles are on it? Is it stock?

How much slop is in your timing chain?
---measure this by putting your timing marks on ten degrees BTC, pull the distributor cap off then manually move your crankshaft back and forth with a long extension. From 'end to end' as you go back and forth, how many crank degrees do you get before the rotor starts turning. (This is where your hesitation is coming from.)

As your timing chain stretches, the cam/crank timing slowly retards the cam. Sometimes, your timing light marks will 'jump around' indicating chain slop.

Vacuum comes from the relationship between the pistons and valves. Loss in vacuum can come from leaky valves but more commonly from cam timing. - Dave

Very good advice that deserves repeating. And while replacing the distributor cap it's only a matter of a wrench and turning back and forth. Test completed.

Your new distributor cap may have residual flash on the interior contacts which calls for a careful inspection.
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  #17  
Old 06-27-2018, 12:04 AM
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Absolutely. Good advice again. I will systematically go through step by step what I am able to and replace any questionable parts as I go. The carb issue will be a little tricky though, finding the model suggested, or going for a original 4100 or rebuilding my 4160. An simple fit to my car without to much "Macgyver-in" is what I'm aiming for. I will have to see whats in my area and talk to the rebuilder shop and see what he has in stock. So nice driving weather this week. Isn't that always the way.
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Old 06-27-2018, 08:04 AM
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The Edelbrock 1406 is the best replacement carburetor in my opinion. Many on the forum use it including myself and I haven't heard any major complaints.

I agree with John.I swapped out the Holley's and replaced them with Edelbrock 1406 on both the 58 & 60 with no issues. Lots of air
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  #19  
Old 06-27-2018, 09:14 AM
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Default Engine Timing/Carb Fine Tuning

I am another one with a Edelbrock 1406 carb on Rose and it works great.
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  #20  
Old 06-27-2018, 08:14 PM
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Here are some pictures from our email topic. I pulled the carb to have a shop have a look. Your comments are helpful. The intake looks dirty. I have a new filter. I removed the additional inline filter just before the carb a few years ago. Is the the result? The first picture shows the HB /Timing mark setup. Around that timing is where the engine begins to sound good and I start to get increase in vacuum. If I try to retard the timing to the right from this point, the engine stalls. Like I said in a earlier post, I brought the #1 piston up on the compression stroke and at the top of its travel, the white dot was right on "0" degree mark. If anything looks out of the ordinary in these pictures, please point it out. Thanks.
















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