Turn Signal Spring or Bulbs?

[Deanj]

My left (down) turn signal setting moves upward early before turning. I notice the resistance in pushing the lever down isn't quite as firm as setting the lever up for a right turn, but that doesn't seem like it should be an issue. On a left turn the lever will cancel out 50% of the time as I'm waiting to make the turn, but it's not popping upward solid when doing that. This happens regardless of different flasher units, so these can't all be bad.

Is this a symptom of a bogus spring (mine seemed fine when apart), or is this a light bulb problem? I read the resistance in some bulbs play **** with the signal.

Dean

[jopizz]

The movement of the turn signal arm is totally mechanical. It has nothing to do with anything electrical. Check the cancelling cam and the turn signal mechanism in the column.

John

[Deanj]

John. you can't mean the C-clip because it's totally correct. No one sells the cancelling mechanism except plate switch spring and turn signal pawl. The turn signal pawl is solid, so that leaves the spring or something in the mechanism, but that's a couple of solid pieces, too.

[jopizz]

I would remove the steering wheel, shift indicator plate and make sure the turn signal switch, pawl and return spring are working correctly. Make sure the turn signal switch moves freely up and down. There's no magic to it. It either holds until the cancelling cam moves it or it doesn't.

John

[Tbird1044]

Dean:
It appears there is only one spring on the T/S switch for the cancelling mechanism, so if the R works okay, it would make sense that the L should also work.
Have you made any moves on the steering column moving it in or out lately? Since the C cancelling clip is attached to the steering wheel, and the steering shaft is fixed, changing the column location could change the orientation of the clip to the switch. This is just a thought.
Also, if you rebuilt the top end of the column, the top bearing has a separate insert for the inner race to keep things tight. Does your steering wheel have any side to side play at all?
As John already stated, the cancelling mechanism is purely mechanical, so if these items all check out, it may be time for a new switch.
Let us know what you find.
Nyles

[Frango100]

I just had my turn signal mechanism apart last week. There is a small roller on the back of the mechanism, which goes up or down, depending on the direction you select. This roller goes over a small cam I believe. Have a look if this cam is not worn out.
Also, if the turn signal cancels too early, or even will not hold when selecting, the cancelling cam can be positioned wrongly. It should be with the open side opposite of the cancelling mechanism.

[Deanj]

I haven't removed the steering wheel yet as I only want to do that one time. I haven't changed the position of the steering wheel, but I had it out last year when rebuilding the column. The turn signal never worked to my satisfaction not including the lousy new replacement lever from Mac's which even Teflon tape or a lock washer won't make tighter.

I will say the lever holds, but it cancels easy with 1/8th turn of the wheel. That's why as I drive to the turn, the signal cancels. Does this mean my C-Clip is 180* out of position? I looked at a photo I took and the open end faces the lever. Can I turn that w/o taking the clip off entirely?

Dean

[simplyconnected]

I haven't removed the steering wheel yet as I only want to do that one time. I haven't changed the position of the steering wheel, but I had it out last year when rebuilding the column. ...Can I turn that w/o taking the clip off entirely?

What? You had the wheel off but now you only want to remove it one time? I'm totally confused.

Steering wheel removal does not affect other parts at all. The spline is clearly marked with the steering shaft. Use a good puller.

And yes, that cancelling 'C' is not welded or glued. It's simply an open piece of rolled steel. It may be turned or it slides off. You may have turned it inadvertently the last time you had your steering wheel off. - Dave

[Deanj]

Dave, I mean I would like to get his right with one removal of the steering wheel. I've had it off a good 6 times and that's plenty.

I transferred that C-clip from my old wheel to a new steering wheel. I can't recall when my lever cancelling problem began. Everything works great in the wheel but the signal lever. I replaced the wheel, both bearings, shift collar, shifter and grommet, turn signal lever, shift indicator, detent, and turn signal switch.

Is 1/8th turn of the wheel enough to cancel the signal?

Dean

[KENN]

I Had The Same Problem On My 60. I Turned The Canceling Cam So The Open End Is Facing The Switch And It Works Better..1/4 To 1/2 Turn..kenn

[Deanj]

KENN said:

I Turned The Canceling Cam So The Open End Is Facing The Switch

Okay, my C-Clip open end faces the lever. Yours is the opposite? Facing the switch on the right?

I guess I can try anything. My right only takes a 1/4 and the left takes a suggestion, a wobble.

Dean

[KENN]

This Is How I Have Mine Set..kenn

[Frango100]

Funny that it works on your car with the cancelling cam opening towards the cancelling mechanism. The open end of the cam will engage to the cancelling pawls, which are then very close to the cam opening. But as long as it works, it should be ok.

[Deanj]

Voila! I reversed the c-clip cancelling cam 180* with open end facing the switch location on the right.

The left turn cancels with 1/4 turn of the steering wheel left and a bit over 1/2 to cancel the right. I suppose some fine tuning might get it better, but I can live with this. The other way required almost no left turn steering movement to cancel the turn.

What have we learned? Squarebird Forum has some bright guys! I'll bet there are cancelling cams set the other way that work. Thanks everyone!

Dean

[jopizz]

Notice the two diagrams. One shows the open end facing right and one shows it facing left. It seems even Ford couldn't make up their mind which way was best.

John