62 T Bird won't stop running

[simplyconnected]

Ok, look at what's happening in this plug. One wire for the brake switch is hot at all times and two wires go to the starter solenoid. One wire bypasses the ignition resistor to the coil.

I would start by looking at this plug:

[RetiredBMC]

Sorry, I got busy....all great info...thanks. So, here's what happened tonight. I replaced all those broken frayed wires, hooked up the battery and took the volt meter to the wires. With the ignition OFF, no key, I was getting 13 volts at the red wire that attaches to the ignition coil +. So, go inside to the ignition switch (my entire dash is removed) and I see a separate red wire leading up and away from the ignition switch that has a quick disconnect/connect plug that goes into another bundle of wires. I disconnect if from the ignition switch and put the volt meter to it and I get 13 volts as well. Looking in my shop manual, I believe it is the "Spark Coil Primary Resistor" I'll try to attach the phone here. So........if I am getting 13 volts on the red wire (primary resistor) going into the ignition switch, and it's turned OFF and I'm getting 13 Volts at the red wire that is suppose to connect to the ignition coil....does that mean bad ignition switch? Hopefully I explained it right.

[RetiredBMC]

I was going to post a picture from the shop manual...but can't seem to get it to work...sorry.

[RetiredBMC]

Here's a diagram showing the two main connector plugs. They are below and to the right of the master cylinder/booster.

John

Awesome!!! Thanks, I was able to locate the connector :-)

[jopizz]

So........if I am getting 13 volts on the red wire (primary resistor) going into the ignition switch, and it's turned OFF and I'm getting 13 Volts at the red wire that is suppose to connect to the ignition coil....does that mean bad ignition switch? Hopefully I explained it right.

With the key off the only wire at the ignition switch that should have voltage is the yellow wire. None of the other wires should have voltage unless the key is in the On, Acc or Start position. If you have voltage on the resistance wire bullet connector coming from the ignition switch with the wire disconnected and the key off then it's most likely the ignition switch. To make sure remove the connector from the ignition switch and put your voltmeter on Ohms with an audible beep. Make sure the key is off. Connect one lead to the B terminal of the switch and the other lead to any of the other terminals. If you get a steady beep then the switch is bad. If you don't then turn the key to the On position. It should beep when you hit the C terminal or the center post. When you turn to Start you should get a beep on the S terminal. If the switch tests good then the trouble is toward the wiring harness.

John

[RetiredBMC]

Gents... Just wanted to thank you all again for your help!!! I finally got it fixed....come to find out, I messed up my brand new solenoid when I tighten down the battery and starter cables to the solenoid studs. Making it too tight "fuses" the inside leaving it in an always "on situation". Slapped a new solenoid on with cables just a little snug and the car shuts off when I turn the key to off!!!

Thanks again, I did learn a lot and probably saved alot of money by not having a mechanic come out....lol.
Eric

[jopizz]

Gents... Just wanted to thank you all again for your help!!! I finally got it fixed....come to find out, I messed up my brand new solenoid when I tighten down the battery and starter cables to the solenoid studs. Making it too tight "fuses" the inside leaving it in an always "on situation". Slapped a new solenoid on with cables just a little snug and the car shuts off when I turn the key to off!!!

Thanks again, I did learn a lot and probably saved alot of money by not having a mechanic come out....lol.
Eric

I've never seen that happen before but then again the new parts are made much more cheaply than the original parts. Glad to hear that you got it fixed without having to tear into the wiring.

John