installed new cam and now a miss

[pbf777]

One concern is when i go to break in the new cam that my edelbrock 600cfm carb may be too lean since i am going from a 352 to a 397ci.

Your concern as you have presented is not valid, as solely this engine capacity change is not so great as to be beyond the capability of this carburetor to compensate.

The real issue affecting the fuel delivery would be "signal", or the perceived pressure differential presented at the metering restrictions within the carburetor. The first assumption that if the capacity of the engine increases so will the requirement for proper fuel delivery seems appropriate, but by the same token since the throttle restriction remains constant then the "signal" or drafting of fuel will also increase.

The difficulty is when one changes other components, such as the camshaft to something more aggressive, then even though the engines' capacity may have increased, the signal is perhaps reduced to the carburetor, and ones' belief is that a larger jetting value is required because of the perceived increased air flow, but actually the larger jet is required because of the reduced signal, particularly at low speed.

But note that tuning efforts, which are unique to each instance, are generally required if one wishes to reap the best possible performance, as is responsible by the carburetor.

Scott.

[StealthSRT10]

Well i finally got the rebuilt engine back into the car. So hopefully over the next few weeks i can get all the little things back together.

[StealthSRT10]

troubleshooting time

New engine installed and everything hooked back up.

Went to fire it up and turned a few times getting slower and slower until it stopped. Turned the key again and saw a little smoke from the right side of engine compartment. So i am assuming that something got wired wrong or something is not grounded.

[simplyconnected]

I hope this helps but that's exactly why I run my engines on a test stand before stuffing them in a car. Ford does the same, they hot test before the engine leaves the engine plant.

If any issues arise, they are easily fixed outside the car. - Dave

[StealthSRT10]

I hope this helps but that's exactly why I run my engines on a test stand before stuffing them in a car. Ford does the same, they hot test before the engine leaves the engine plant.

If any issues arise, they are easily fixed outside the car. - Dave

Trust me i looked into that. unfortunately i do not have that much free time anymore. also the extra cost. i know there are cheap ways of doing it. I am also buying a house and will have to move and time was a factor. Im going to run an extra ground from the block to the body and run a new cable to the starter.

[simplyconnected]

Trust me i looked into that. unfortunately i do not have that much free time anymore. also the extra cost...

That's why I suggested this, to SAVE you some money.

For me, it's easy because I weld. 1" square 16-ga channel and four wheels are cheap when you consider the possibility of pulling the engine the second time. But hey, it's a gamble. I don't like surprises but they do happen.

You are changing wires. How worn are the brushes in your starter motor? - Dave

[scumdog]

.....concern is when i go to break in the new cam that my edelbrock 600cfm carb may be too lean since i am going from a 352 to a 397ci. ol

Anyways.

Nah, unless it was marginal to start with you wont know the difference, the 600cfm carb should be fine to get you going.

[StealthSRT10]

update

So i added some ground straps and re-terminated some wires. Got a new distro cap and rotor.

Now it cranks just fine but i have absolutely no spark at all. I tested the ignition coil and it tests fine. It has 12 volts when the key is in the on position as well. Kinda drawing a blank on what to try to test while cranking.
Any advise would be appreciated.

[jopizz]

Do you still have standard ignition with points? If so you should have less than 12 volts with the key ON because you have a coil resistor. You should have 12 volts to the coil in the start position. If you don't then your solenoid may be defective. Put a test light on the + wire at the coil and crank the engine. If it doesn't light then you are not getting 12 volts from the solenoid. How did you test the coil? Just because it's getting voltage doesn't mean it's putting anything out. If you are not getting spark on any of the plug wires and the solenoid is good then it's either the coil, points or condenser. First I would check to make sure the points are clean and not corroded or burnt and check the gap. Next I would replace the condenser. If all that fails then replace the coil with a known good one.

John

[StealthSRT10]

Do you still have standard ignition with points? If so you should have less than 12 volts with the key ON because you have a coil resistor. You should have 12 volts to the coil in the start position. If you don't then your solenoid may be defective. Put a test light on the + wire at the coil and crank the engine. If it doesn't light then you are not getting 12 volts from the solenoid. How did you test the coil? Just because it's getting voltage doesn't mean it's putting anything out. If you are not getting spark on any of the plug wires and the solenoid is good then it's either the coil, points or condenser. First I would check to make sure the points are clean and not corroded or burnt and check the gap. Next I would replace the condenser. If all that fails then replace the coil with a known good one.

John

I replaced the condenser already. I have a dual points mallory 2155501 or something like that. I have an accel coil.

I tested the resistance from the positive to negative and the side to the top according to specs online. I know the next step is to test while cranking but not sure specifically what im checking or what values i should be looking for. I feel like maybe i had 9 volts before but i didnt change any wiring so not sure that that changed.

[jopizz]

I know the next step is to test while cranking but not sure specifically what im checking or what values i should be looking for.

You should have 12 volts when cranking the engine. If you are using a voltmeter connect the negative probe to the block and the positive probe to the + terminal of the coil.

John

[StealthSRT10]

It lives!!!

Well after some troubleshooting i realized that the points weren't opening. so ya that fixed my issue right away. Thanks for the help guys.

[simplyconnected]

Trust me i looked into that. unfortunately i do not have that much free time anymore...

It pays off in spades when you take your time to do the basics.

You assumed a wiring fault and we assumed you set your points and ignition correctly. I'm glad you got your engine running. - Dave

[sidewalkman]

Well after some troubleshooting i realized that the points weren't opening. so ya that fixed my issue right away. Thanks for the help guys.

Seriously, toss them, spend 100.00 on the Petronics electronic retrofit. I put a hotter coil in at the same time, makes a world of difference.

[StealthSRT10]

I have a upgraded coil already. I dont believe the model distro i have can be upgraded to remove the points.