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  #81  
Old 04-27-2017, 07:36 PM
Joe Johnston Joe Johnston is offline
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If he still has the snaps a replacement tonneau would be an easy and low cost addition. Just vinyl that is clamped around the cockpit by the same pieces holding the drop curtain and snapped into place. The rear deck antenna is a cool looking option, but does make handling the hardtop difficult. Most owners use a hardtop hoist in their garages which makes the job possible for one person.
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  #82  
Old 04-27-2017, 07:38 PM
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Hi Joe, I don't think he is interested in having a tonneau cover, or another hardtop. I think, as I recall, he already has one for his other Babybird. Yes, having a hoist in the garage is a great way to take one off and on!
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  #83  
Old 04-27-2017, 08:23 PM
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A few more things I noticed after looking over the Gate Release form. It does not show Engine Dress Up Kit, which the car has now, and I'm sure alot of them have been changed to that. Also does not show Full Wheel Covers, so maybe it came with the small caps, and there is nothing about a Town and Country Radio, or for that matter, any Radio...not sure if a regular Radio was standard, maybe?
Anyway, it's just interesting to see how it was manufactured, and I have some history of the licence plate renewal receipts from Colorado in the glove box, so it must have spent most of it's life there.
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  #84  
Old 05-15-2017, 12:22 AM
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Jim ~ elijahbird7's '56 Babybird is having a bit of a problem that perhaps some you might be able to help him pinpoint. Here is what Jim had to say.

"Ray, Just finishing a quick project. My friend is moving tomorrow, and he helped me take off the hardtop yesterday.
I have to take the car in tomorrow for an issue that sometimes it will blow smoke out the driver's exhaust after being driven, then sitting for awhile and then restarted. We think a valve stem seal may not be seated properly. Unfortunately, the morning temp is going to be in the 40's, so I dropped down the aftermarket soft top I keep up near the ceiling for now. It's supposed to be in the 70's and 80's in the next few days though, so it won't stay on long.."

Any thoughts about what this might be other than what he thinks it could be? Here are a couple of pix he sent me putting the soft top in place.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg JimElijah56Babybird.jpg (55.8 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg JimElijah56Babybird-2.jpg (68.9 KB, 41 views)
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  #85  
Old 05-15-2017, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YellowRose View Post
...I have to take the car in tomorrow for an issue that sometimes it will blow smoke out the driver's exhaust after being driven, then sitting for awhile and then restarted...
Any thoughts about what this might be other than what he thinks it could be?..
Y-Blocks used 'umbrella-type' valve seals. They are notorious for every bad thing you can think of. They harden, crack, shrink, they don't hold on to the stem tower, etc. The umbrellas are totally useless after no time but hey, this was Ford's first attempt at building an overhead valve engine. Since then, engine engineering has made vast improvements because materials and the process of engine building evolved.

When I rebuilt my 'Y' I made many changes. My machine shop installed hardened exhaust valve seats, milled every mating surface, and machined my valve stem towers for Viton seals. This machining process allows the Viton seals' springs to hold on tight, and give better sealing forever. Modern engines and aftermarket heads (like Edelbrock) commonly use these seals, so they are plentiful and cheap.
CLICK HERE for more details and pictures. The seals start at picture #23 and continue from #33, etc.

I hope this helps. Questions? - Dave

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  #86  
Old 05-15-2017, 11:38 AM
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At my mechanic's now. This has that same type of seal you show in your photo which was done during the rebuild. They showed me with the mirror. Problem seems to be the oil pressure is way too high at 2000+ RPM. We did use the spring from the old pump, but he is going to cut the length of the spring a little to see if we can lower the pressure it would put out at driving speed..
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  #87  
Old 05-16-2017, 03:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YellowRose View Post
...
I have to take the car in tomorrow for an issue that sometimes it will blow smoke out the driver's exhaust after being driven, then sitting for awhile and then restarted. We think a valve stem seal may not be seated properly...
Quote:
Originally Posted by elijahbird7 View Post
At my mechanic's now. This has that same type of seal you show in your photo which was done during the rebuild. They showed me with the mirror. Problem seems to be the oil pressure is way too high at 2000+ RPM. We did use the spring from the old pump, but he is going to cut the length of the spring a little to see if we can lower the pressure it would put out at driving speed..
Alright, something isn't right at all. Y-Blocks are notorious for poor oiling. There have been many 'oil modification improvements' done to this engine over time, including kits that supply oil to rocker arms THROUGH the valve covers.

You can clearly see that Viton seals have springs holding them on their towers. They do not leak and I have never seen one come loose from any engine. You don't need a mirror to see them as you can see through the valve springs in my picture:



What about oil flow to your rocker shafts?
Are the shafts restricted?
Are the shafts plugged?



There are only two nuts holding each rocker cover on because this engine needs it's solid lifters adjusted during a major tuneup. That means it will be removed frequently (as opposed to a hydraulic lifter engine). When the covers are off, does each rocker arm show good oil flow? The engine only needs to be running for a few seconds to show oil flow. Each rocker arm has two holes; one to receive oil from the rocker shaft and the other to oil the pushrod.
I'm trying to determine if your cam's center bearing is grooved from wear, restricting flow to your rocker shafts.
Cutting the oil pump spring is NOT the answer, especially in an engine that is notorious for poor oil flow. Did someone install a high pressure pump? There's a difference between 'high volume' and 'high pressure'.

When new, my engine delivers ~40-psi at 700-rpm and ~60-psi at running speeds. As the engine bearings wear and the motor loosens up, that pressure will drop. Restriction to flow causes high pressure (like when you put your thumb over the garden hose).

Photo-bombed by my Pointer, Pepper, while hot testing my 'Y':
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  #88  
Old 05-16-2017, 07:41 PM
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When I had talked to our Classic Tbird Club Tech advisor and told him I was getting the engine rebuilt by my local old car mechanic, the first thing he asked was if we were replacing the oil pump. When I said yes, he said that the pumps being sold by the Tbird suppliers now put out way too much pressure for the Y Block, and to take out the pressure spring and replace it with the one from the old pump, which we did.
Monday, when my mechanic checked the pressure, it was topping out in the 80+ range on a warm engine....after shortening the spring slightly, we ended up in the 50 to 55 range, which made him a lot happier. Nothing under the valve cover looked amiss. I only have a little over 1,000 miles on it since the rebuild, so we are going to give it a little more time to see how things go. As for the way it runs, it runs extremely well, idles smoothly, accelerates quickly, etc. I will just start driving it more now that we are getting some warm weather. My mechanic was not sure what type of rings the builder used, as he mostly does racing engines..but he is no longer available due to a serious medical issue to find out.
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  #89  
Old 05-17-2017, 05:51 AM
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I understand your issue is, your engine burns oil from the LH side upon startup. The disadvantage is, you really don't know what was done during the overhaul although you have great confidence in your builder. (We've been here before.)

Generally, there are a few causes for burning oil, IF that is what's really going on. I say it that way because we had engines that burned brake fluid 'in spurts' but the evidence left a low M/C fluid level in the reservoir.

Valve seals/sloppy guides are causes for burning oil. Improper cylinder crosshatch, a broken ring, a warped head or bad head gasket will also cause oil consumption. Excessive oil pressure might cause oil to blow past a warped head or bad head gasket, but that is rare.

Improper 'Y-Block' head bolt torque is common because the Ford Shop Manual gave incorrect torque requirements. In fact, the spec's were too high which caused many bolts to break, kinda like this one:



That condition mimics a bad head gasket or warped head. BTW, that white stuff is Teflon plumbing sealant because this bolt passes through a water jacket.

A standard Melling M-42 oil pump works beautifully in my 'Y' with no alteration. Melling is a high quality brand, used by most engine machine shops that offer a warranty.

Because of all the little idiosyncrasies of the 'Y', even a seasoned Chevy builder will miss a lot in building this engine. The same holds true for the FE. It's good to hear your engine is smooth-running but the real proof is in longevity. Without oil modifications, the timing chain and rocker shafts are starved of oil. Don't forget to add ZDDP to your oil for the solid flat tappets. - Dave
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