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  #31  
Old 07-09-2018, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue62tbird View Post
well the wiring to the gauge is good, I have completed the circuit, the gauge moved.
Moved to where? Did it stay at 1/4 or go higher?

John
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  #32  
Old 07-09-2018, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
Moved to where? Did it stay at 1/4 or go higher?

John
When I pulled the wire from the Gauge and I just grounded that wire only, the gauge went to 3/4 and the test light I was using as a ground wire (I figured it was just a wire passing through a light more or less) was flashing, as if the connection was good from the tester to the gauge and back to test light, I thought.
My temp gauge works so we know the CRV or CVR thingy is good up there under the dash.
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  #33  
Old 07-09-2018, 09:45 PM
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I wasn't aware you were just rehashing what you did previously. When you get around to replacing the wire tomorrow or whenever as I suggested let me know the results. If it's just a bad wire from the harness to the sender that's easier and cheaper to fix than the sender.

John
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  #34  
Old 07-09-2018, 09:47 PM
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did you think I have been out working on the car during this conversation?
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  #35  
Old 07-09-2018, 10:10 PM
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did you think I have been out working on the car during this conversation?
In this era of smartphones anything's possible. LOL

John
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  #36  
Old 07-10-2018, 07:44 AM
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I was not. Sorry.
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  #37  
Old 07-10-2018, 07:56 AM
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Remove the fuel tank sending unit. No need to replace wires yet.
Once you get the float assembly out, the whole picture will become clear. It is a variable resistor that should measure ten-ohms when the tank is full and 100-ohms when empty.

Using a test light in series with ground is good. It proves two things; how consistent and steady the flashing occurs and the simple fact that your wiring has a complete path from the dash to the tank.

Mechanical CVRs work like your turn signal unit but they are on at all times your key is on. They should output a STEADY 12-volt pulse, 50% on and 50% off. This averages the current to a 6-volt system. When mechanical CVRs get old, the flashing gets erratic because the contacts get pitted and burned. Old CVRs can also stick ON (all the time) or burn open. - Dave
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Old 07-10-2018, 09:07 AM
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Using a test light in series with ground is good. It proves two things; how consistent and steady the flashing occurs and the simple fact that your wiring has a complete path from the dash to the tank.

(all the time) or burn open. - Dave
When I did what you said above I did get a steady consistent flash that was not erratic.
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Old 07-10-2018, 12:56 PM
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If it is the sending unit, I am seeing stuff on Ebay from 40 bucks and up. Dorman, Spectra to name a few, what would be a good brand to go with?
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  #40  
Old 07-10-2018, 01:20 PM
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If it is the sending unit, I am seeing stuff on Ebay from 40 bucks and up. Dorman, Spectra to name a few, what would be a good brand to go with?
Spectra makes the new fuel tanks so I would go with their sender.

John
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