Forward in all gears, incl. Reverse

[V-John]

There wasn't any burning smell to the fluid when I drained it. I haven't experienced any slipping in any of the forward gears, but I need to take it out again to double-check on that.

The tools listed in the shop manual to do the band adjustments look so.....1950's. I guess they can still be purchased if you know where to find them.

Thanks for the help

[V-John]

I took the car out again, letting it warm up first. Had to add about half a quart of fluid before setting out. Once again, car shifted fine in Reverse backing out of the garage. Coming back, it was slipping trying to back into the driveway again. I pulled around and drove straight in, then tried backing up 3 or 4 times.

It'll slowly creep back, but if I give it some gas, it'll slip and then start shuddering. It didn't shudder the last time out.

[Frango100]

Did you try the Lo position as well?If yes, did it slip?
The adjustment of the rear band can be done without special tool via the hole in the transmission tunnel. You only have to take care that after the adjustment has been done, that the adjusting screw doesn't turn while fastening the lock nut.

[V-John]

I was able to do the rear band adjustment by using a 3/8"-drive extension and socket run through the 1/2"-drive 3/4" socket. I have an inch-pound torque wrench that I used to adjust it (using the ft-lb to in-lb conversion) and then turned back 1 1/2 turns. I thought it was all good backing out of the driveway again, but once more it was slipping after the test drive when I came back.

When shifted into what should be Reverse (there's no small clunk or anything like before heading out) on level ground after the drive, it'll slowly back up without giving it any gas. But, give it some gas and it still rolls back at the same slow pace and will start the shuddering.

Thanks to the TRL, I have this checklist to work with:

http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/DiagnosticChart-COM.jpg

[Deanj]

Slipping and chatter, and it worked great before changing fluid? Is it the correct fluid? I know you know what you're doing, but I recall the saying: Never overlook the obvious. Something affecting the clutches or torque converter operation.

Dean

[Frango100]

There is a pressure measuring port on the back side (right hand side when i remember well) of the transmission housing, just above the pan flange, where you can connect an adapter with hose and a pressure meter. It would be interesting to see if the regulated pressure changes after warming up. A bad seal on the rear servo or a problem in the valve body could be your problem.

[V-John]

Slipping and chatter, and it worked great before changing fluid? Is it the correct fluid? I know you know what you're doing, but I recall the saying: Never overlook the obvious. Something affecting the clutches or torque converter operation.

Dean

It had started slipping before I did any work to it. I'm using Mobil Type F fluid. It was working fine, minus the leaks, when we took it to about 10 car shows over 4 years. Then it slowly starting slipping as I had to add a little more fluid each time because of the leaks.

With all of the sludge in the bottom of the pan when I finally got into it, it just may need an overhaul. I didn't take the valve body apart to clean it, and I probably should have.

[Frango100]

It had started slipping before I did any work to it. I'm using Mobil Type F fluid. It was working fine, minus the leaks, when we took it to about 10 car shows over 4 years. Then it slowly starting slipping as I had to add a little more fluid each time because of the leaks.

With all of the sludge in the bottom of the pan when I finally got into it, it just may need an overhaul. I didn't take the valve body apart to clean it, and I probably should have.

That the shift shaft seals where leaking was probably already an indication that an eventual rebuild was done long ago. The internal seals can have hardened, causing internal leaks and a low line pressure.
This will cause slippage and wear. Or the clutches/bands are just worn due to normal wear. Either way, it seems that a rebuild is the way to go.