starting from scratch

[66tbird@21]

How do I get the old key shaft out of the old switch?

[simplyconnected]

With the switch in your hand, stick the key in the slot. Notice there is a small brass pushbutton at the base of the key. Turn the key and press the button down. If the button doesn't go down easy, you should use a small screwdriver to push it down. The trick is, the key needs to be in the right position.

Keep turning and the whole thing will slide right out with the key. Then, you can transfer the key and tumbler over to the new switch. - Dave

[jopizz]

Put the key in and turn to the ACC position. You will see a small hole in the cylinder. Put a paper clip or pin in the hole and push in. Then turn the key counterclockwise. The cylinder should come out.

John

[66tbird@21]

just want to double check. there is a little track with a brass looking circular dot that is sprin loaded. there is a small hole that i can stick a pin through. is this what you are refferring to?

[66tbird@21]

got it! ne special way to put it in the new housing?

[jopizz]

Yes, the small hole on the face of the cylinder is what I'm referring to. You need to stick a pin in there to release the lock pin.

[66tbird@21]

wow that was really helpful. its crazy how you can explain it to me like it is right in front of you. ok, so ill put the switch in tom hopefully if there is time. if all goes well i should have spark. i tested the relay just in case and its good. will post an update when able to. thanks again

[66tbird@21]

Ok so I put the new switch in. There are 5 wires in the starter relay. One is black, it has constant ground. One is red, has constant voltage. One green wire (goes to carb) also is grounded. The other green one that connects to the + side of coil, I get nothing. The wire has continuity. Any ideas?

[66tbird@21]

I figured it out!
The previous owner put in an additional hood latch that also acts as a switch for the ground wire! All I had to do was unlock the stupid thing and I got spark right away. Need to do a carb rebuild and fuel restoration. I was cranking it a little bit to test for spark, but batt doesn't got much juice bc it was sitting around. Nevertheless, I had not one drop of fuel come to the carb

[66tbird@21]

Anyone know what gauge size the blue white wire that goes from ignition relay to + side of ignition coil?

[jopizz]

It seemed like Ford used the minimum gauge possible for their wiring. It's better to use slightly heavier gauge wire when you replace anything. If you can replace the whole length of wire rather than just piecing it out.

John

[simplyconnected]

I believe Ford used 18AWG, but equally important is the insulation type and number of copper strands. This application is amid engine vibration, and heat greater than 60*C.

Any wire will work for right now but that doesn't make it right. I recommend using proper automotive wire. It will last a very long time. - Dave

[66tbird@21]

I tried to crank the t bird yest with my new switch and the switch stayed in the on position even when I turned it off. I just replaced the switch. Should I assume its defective and get a new one or is there another issue that may cause this.
Alex

[simplyconnected]

Since this is a 'plug-in' switch, I have to assume the wiring is correct.

From the start position, when you let go of the key does it return to Run? If not, it's a bad switch.

How did you wire your start relay?

[66tbird@21]

I also assume its a bad switch and I'm going to replace it. I think it does go back to the on setting. I mean I literally can take the key out of the ignition and walk out of the car and it will still be cranking. There is no fuel system currently so it doesn't turn over yet. The relay I left alone. Before I got the car, it ran about 4 years ago.