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62 Thunderbird timing issue

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    62 Thunderbird timing issue

    Hi all, new to this site. it's my first T-bird, so i have a timing issue. i have redone the timing gears and chain, put a new distributor had my damper rebuilt with Damper DR motor, has great compression.
    I can't get the car to start. the plugs are getting fuel the coil is passing good current.
    When i redid the timing i put the cam sprocket dot marker
    at 6 o'clock TDC with rotor pointing to 1 o'clock on distrubitor and the crank sprocket dot at 12 o'clock.
    I cranked it by hand, 2 revolutions to make sure that the damper and gears lined up. TDC and damper was at 0 degrees every thing was good.
    Now my car won't start and my damper marker is 5 to 6 degrees off. if i place the timing and plug wires at one over, it wants to start.
    Engine vin C1AE 6015G not sure if this is the original motor i know its a 61 Ford engineering department 7 genaration.

    but i am stumped. can any one please help me on this one.
  • simplyconnected
    Administrator
    • May 26 2009
    • 8787

    #2
    Let's start with the basics Moses, by proving your timing chain is right. If it isn't, there is no sense in going further until cam/crank timing is correct. If you are not confident in your damper's timing marks, get a 'stop bolt' at one of the vendors to find true TDC on your crankshaft. Otherwise proceed...

    Pull the driver's side valve cover off.
    Looking at the crank bolt, turn it clockwise until you see #6 valves move. I usually do this by hand using a long handle. #6 exhaust opens first, then starts to close. Just before it closes, the intake valve will move. Slowly advance the crank until these valves are dead level, then stop. You can use a straightedge across both rocker arms to get them even. Don't move the crankshaft any more.

    At this point, your cam is centered and your crankshaft timing marks should be right on TDC. Also, your distributor rotor should point directly at #6 cylinder.

    If all this is true, turn your distributor housing until your points almost open, then snug the distributor bolt.
    The top of your distributor cap should have a '1' next to #1 sparkplug tower. Plug your wires in the correct tower holes and snap the cap on the distributor.

    I assume your condenser is good, the points are set at 0.013", they are wired correctly to the coil's NEG post and the POS side connects to a ballast resistor (or resistor wire).

    Replace the valve cover, pour 1/4 cup of gasoline down the carb and start your engine. It should start immediately. I'm open to questions. - Dave
    Member, Sons of the American Revolution

    CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

    "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
    --Lee Iacocca

    From: Royal Oak, Michigan

    Comment

    • Woobie
      Experienced
      • Apr 1 2016
      • 146

      #3
      Greetings.

      For the sake of clarity, you purchased a timing gear and chain set to match the camshaft ????? 1958-1963 used a cam button at the timing cover. Later years, a thrust plate on the front of the block.

      Years ago I had a patient discussion with Summit technical department concerning the application years listed with their Ford FE timing set offerings. Is it a 58-63 or 64-76 ??? A timing set listed as fitting a 1958-1976 Ford FE might cause problems.
      Austin

      Comment

      • Woobie
        Experienced
        • Apr 1 2016
        • 146

        #4
        I guess we'll never know
        Austin

        Comment

        • Guest

          #5
          Sorry for the late response I never got an alert that someone answered.
          I figured it out a couple days later it was the distributor. I pulled it out, reset the initial timing, it started right up.

          Then starter went out, put a new one in.

          Then it was running very rich in fuel, tuned the carb by pressure gauge. Also set my floats properly. Still had a strong odor my wife hated also gas would bottom out.
          I fixed both issues with a Holley pressure regulator with a gauge running pressure at 5psi

          Engine still had a ruff idle took a while to figure that problem out but found it 3 weeks ago. It was the brake booster.
          I'm Having it rebuilt along with the steering gearbox.

          This has been a real learning experience. I have done everything in house just my wife and me and what I teach my kids of the build.

          Thank you for responding sorry again for the extremely late response my apologies.

          PS engine was rebuilt before all the above issues.

          Comment

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