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  #31  
Old 10-24-2013, 10:17 PM
keith keith is offline
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I'm enjoying your journey to going fast.

Keith
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  #32  
Old 10-25-2013, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Restifier52 View Post
235/60R15 BFGoodrich g-Force T/A Drag Radial 2. Either 7" or 8" width on the wheel. I can't look it up online at Jeg's where I bought the wheels cause they won't show you your history without the order#. It took me all day to get them on ( I had to remove the 1" lowering blocks to get the axle low enough - I figured that was less work than undoing the leaf spring perches) then I took em off for a cruise and now they're back on again. I realized it might be a bit easier if I let some air out of em. In truth it seemed like I had to push them through the gap between the wheel well lip and the brake drum just as hard with 10psi as 30.
I've been guilty of putting a small screw-type jack between the frame and rear-end to force the rear-end low enough to get the wheel on.

Make sure the jack don't slip is MY advice.
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  #33  
Old 10-26-2013, 12:55 PM
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I love the idea of a fiberglass hood and front bumper. If I happened to trip over a huge pile of $$ I'd do it, too.

But seriously wouldn't one have to delete the hinges if one had a fiberglass hood? I would think a lift off job with those post/cotter pin assemblies would be required.
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  #34  
Old 10-29-2013, 07:39 PM
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Default Frame pictures

Stopped by the shop today to see how things were going. They are going alright. I didn't have a clear picture of what they were going to do. The car is up on multiple jacks of course and has been squared up. Roger told me one of the front corners was off by, well he didn't say how much but it was not much. He found some rodent remains and a lot of blasting media that is still in the car after 2000 miles of driving (that stuff is tenacious). He will be putting the driveshaft loop on and welding on some jack pads, too.
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  #35  
Old 10-31-2013, 04:17 PM
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Smart moves, both the frame connectors and loop. Now you get more energy put directly towards the rear suspesion and pavement instead of body flex. Caltracks could help some with the upcoming traction probs Have you taken your bird to the track yet, I mean ever?

I've seen so many driveshaft failures that loop is a must safety device really.

I like your build a lot Rick
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  #36  
Old 10-31-2013, 09:02 PM
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So they "squared-up" your car and THEN welded those pieces of steel along both sides of the driveshaft tunnel? Those new pieces keep the car "square", and also add strength?

My car seems to have a bit of a "twist" in it. The right rear corner sits a bit lower than the left.

If this is the solution, then maybe I've found the answer...
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  #37  
Old 10-31-2013, 10:48 PM
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Default Rick's 1960 HT

Greg, I wish I could remember exactly what my mechanic found when he was checking why my right rear side was sitting lower than the left. But I do know that he found a bracket or something attached to the axle, I think, that was pulling the right side down lower than the left side. It was flipped the wrong way, I think he said and as soon as he turned it the right way to match the left side, it allowed the right side to go up and level off with the left side! I just wish I could remember exactly what it was, but it had something to do with the springs on the right side or a bracket, something like that. You might get under the car and check the left side against the right side and see if something is flipped the wrong way....
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  #38  
Old 11-01-2013, 12:30 AM
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Fireball, I have not yet been to the track. If I'm lucky I'll get some passes in before it closes for the season. Greg, that is precisely what they are doing. They have welded the rear end of the bar to the same piece of the frame that holds the front leaf spring bracket. That's why they cut open that area under the rear seat. When they're done we'll adjust the caltracs nice and snug and off we go!
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  #39  
Old 11-13-2013, 09:10 PM
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Default Done For Now

I took more shots under the car but they don't show the new frame rails well. They just blend in now that they're painted. Roger told me he had to do ALOT of modification to the "universal" driveshaft loop.
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  #40  
Old 02-28-2014, 04:57 PM
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Default Air Cleaner Funnies

Y'all know that I painted my valve covers yellow to pay tribute to the original motor. Now I have given my air cleaner a similar treatment. I bought a 428 decal (for a '66) from Birdsnest and had a local (in the fleamarket!) signmaker change the 2 to a zero in his computer and make me a displacement correct decal. I know I'm mixing generations here and the color isn't strictly correct but it's just for fun.

Had to attach a tab to the lid to accomodate the interceptor decal. I used some of what was leftover from my radiator shroud. Same leftover aluminum for the mounting plate for my fuel pump in the back. I still have a few square inches left
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