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Glad to hear that you are making progress. At least now you know where the rotor should be positioned. Hopefully the distributor gear didn't get too torn up. Fortunately replacements are readily available.
Was the first thing I checked gear looks in good shape. I will have to play with it to get it to drop down in is there any trick I can do with the passenger side valves to assist in the line up as it appears that valve cover would be easier to remove and put back on
Still working through it I checked the plug gaps and made sure they were at 0.35. Next I checked the wires I had 4 that had cuts in the plastic exposing the ineards of the wires. Switched them out as well. I have a new fuel filter that I am going to put on as well. It runs and usually starts but seems like it chokes out through the carb or a puff comes up through the carb. I have played with the idel but have had a hard time getting out in time to play with it before it dies. I haven't played with the timing since I aligned it with 6 * btdc and the rotor pointing at the one or six tower.
When adjusting the idle make sure you are adjusting the fast idle screw, not just the curb idle screw. The curb idle screw only works when the choke is wide open which it shouldn't be at cold start up. Until then the fast idle screw is what keeps the car at the correct speed, which is about 1500 rpm with the choke nearly closed.
Well I decided to check the distributor lobes against the points opening. Which seemed wise as the points open when the rotor is just past the tower inbetween the 1 and 5. So I have driver side valve cover off trying to check to make sure the valves on the one cylinder are level at tdc and so far no dice. But will keep at it next step will be pulling timing chain cover.
Justin, you're starting to go in the wrong direction.
If your points are opening between towers your distributor is off by one tooth. This has to be right.
We are at post #81 and you are still having the same problems you described in post #1.
Carefully read all the posts up to now. All the info is there including more than the Service Manual offers.
If what you told us regarding your timing marks is correct, there is no reason to re-open the timing cover.
If you have an extremely difficult time setting your distributor, have a mechanic help show you. - Dave
Well I decided to check the distributor lobes against the points opening. Which seemed wise as the points open when the rotor is just past the tower inbetween the 1 and 5. So I have driver side valve cover off trying to check to make sure the valves on the one cylinder are level at tdc and so far no dice. But will keep at it next step will be pulling timing chain cover.
Stuff pulling the timing-cover off, just lift the dissy until it's free from the drive-gear on the cam (i.e. free to turn) and turn the shaft in any direction for about 1/16 of a turn and drop it back down - see then if the points open at the correct time for ANY tower, you can soon move the leads around to suit.
A Thunderbirder from the Land of the Long White Cloud.
Know the basic working of an automobile ignition system working on battery.
Now you need the right plug to spark at the correct time. #1plug 6* BTC.
Once this is established, the motor may or may not run. You must reach this point to continue any other troubleshooting. Like anything else you have to build from a solid foundation. Get to this point and we can assist you from there.
I received a video from Justin regarding his starting issue. I can't say at this point if it's an ignition or fuel issue. Maybe someone else has some ideas. If so I can email it to you. I'll send it to Ray and see if he can somehow post it.
The funny thing is it started right up the first time and ran well. I forgot to hook up the choke. Right now just attaching to battery as I haven't determined where to attach. So it stalled out. Now it's having a rough time running properly or long enough for me to hop from drivers seat to the engine and try to adjust anything. So it might be bad gas I will try to disconnect the line and run a gravity bottle in the carb and see what I can come up with. But of anyone has an idea to try first let me know. Thanks
My first guess would be a misadjusted choke or possibly your needle valve is stuck and it's flooding out. Look down the bowl and see if you can see gas pouring out. Sometimes tapping on the top of the carburetor will fix it.
John
I think this was post number three. I thought we took care of the gas and choke back then. Now you have 'bad gas'?
You don't need gravity-feed because you have a fuel pump. Drop a hose into a gallon of fresh gas and connect it to your fuel pump.
Make sure all your mechanical parts are properly connected before attempting to start. - Dave
If your carburetor got clogged because of bad or dirty gas it won't run right until you clean it out. The smallest piece of dirt can clog the idle passages and cause it to run rough and stall out.
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