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  #11  
Old 08-18-2018, 11:09 PM
Brushwolf Brushwolf is offline
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Default 61-64(?h brake booster

61-64(?) brake booster with brackets:
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  #12  
Old 08-18-2018, 11:11 PM
Brushwolf Brushwolf is offline
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Default 65 brake booster with brackets

65 brake booster with brackets:
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  #13  
Old 08-18-2018, 11:22 PM
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DKheld DKheld is offline
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Quote:
That York unit has always given me the impression that somebody attached a Briggs & Stratton motor to the car engine. Mostly it is a lot of weight, brackets alone probably weigh more then Sanden and updated brackets for it.
- that describes the York compressor perfectly.

Hope that '66 is the same !!!

Yes - I was really biting my nails when I cut the firewall. I even kept the piece that I cut out so I could put it back - ha.

Found a pic of mine when I was installing the booster. You can see the studs sticking out of the firewall through my home-made bracket with no nuts on them.



I've always put my pics on an off site picture hosting page (Dropshots). It's not very reliable so that may be part of the pic problem. Sometimes when I pull my old pics to post I have refresh 2-3 times to get it to work.

The evap box is fragile - particularly the little screw tabs and the clips holding the two parts together (it comes apart in the center). Bought mine off ebay and most of the clips were rusty and wouldn't hold so after I cleaned it out and put the dynamat in I sealed with black silicone. It had a corner busted out and part of the flange that directs air into the car. I used fiberglass to repair it then sprayed it with truck bed liner to make it look new again.



Hope it goes easy getting that 460 in there......

Eric
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  #14  
Old 08-18-2018, 11:27 PM
Brushwolf Brushwolf is offline
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Am thinking the 65 looks to raise the MC higher than the 61-64, but hard to tell for sure from pics...

Wonder if the bottom of the bracket (and flat rod) could be extended at the firewall, instead of the top of the bracket? Might be less noticeable to extend bracket reach down there, if it is possible...

Guy with the 66 nearby says he will let me know in the morning if the booster is still on the car he is parting. Although since the bracket unbolts, I probably only want to take the bracket, pivot and flat rod that goes to pedal... CL .... We shall see..
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  #15  
Old 08-18-2018, 11:43 PM
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Oh yeah - that car looks nice and straight.

Lucky to have original A/C car - looks like it has the tinted glass - nice.

Let me know what happens !
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  #16  
Old 08-18-2018, 11:44 PM
Brushwolf Brushwolf is offline
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Default Booster brackets

Quote:
Originally Posted by DKheld View Post
- that describes the York compressor perfectly.

Hope that '66 is the same !!!

Yes - I was really biting my nails when I cut the firewall. I even kept the piece that I cut out so I could put it back - ha.

Found a pic of mine when I was installing the booster. You can see the studs sticking out of the firewall through my home-made bracket with no nuts on them.



I've always put my pics on an off site picture hosting page (Dropshots). It's not very reliable so that may be part of the pic problem. Sometimes when I pull my old pics to post I have refresh 2-3 times to get it to work.

The evap box is fragile - particularly the little screw tabs and the clips holding the two parts together (it comes apart in the center). Bought mine off ebay and most of the clips were rusty and wouldn't hold so after I cleaned it out and put the dynamat in I sealed with black silicone. It had a corner busted out and part of the flange that directs air into the car. I used fiberglass to repair it then sprayed it with truck bed liner to make it look new again.



Hope it goes easy getting that 460 in there......

Eric
I'll have to be real careful with my AC plenum removal then.

You did a very nice job on your bracket extension. That is kind of what I am thinking except I might just cut the bracket ears off that have the wrong bolt pattern and the studs, make new L-shaped brackets the right length and drilled with the existing firewall bolt pattern to weld back together and eliminate the extra set of bolts entirely. (And extend the rod to pedal also, if necessary)..

I doubt the 460 will go in easy, but I think it will go. If it is just too problematic I'll try the 400 (longer rods than a 460 and almost as much torque). Would probably be easiest to use the 351c, but hate to lose 100 ft-lbs of torque in a heavy car.

Mike
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  #17  
Old 08-19-2018, 11:23 AM
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Wanted to get these measurements last night but was lazy.
Hopefully they are not too late this AM and make sense.

Rise height from firewall to booster - 1 3/4
(measuring from the top of the bracket on the FW side to the top of the bracket on the booster side)

Firewall side
Overall height of bracket - 4
Overall width 4
3 holes in the bracket on FW side
Top to bottom holes 2 5/16 (these are the ones used for mounting - measured center to center)
Middle to bottom holes 1 3/16
Booster pushrod center comes out 1/2 inch below top edge of firewall side of bracket

Booster side
Overall height of bracket 4 1/4
Overall width of bracket 4 1/4
Top to bottom holes 3 1/2
Side to side holes 3 3/4

Eric

edit - here are some old pics of the booster bracket I dug up.
Had removed the pedal bar and center lever to send off for modification and rebuilding.
(of course mine is a '60)




Last edited by DKheld : 08-19-2018 at 11:45 AM. Reason: add pics
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  #18  
Old 08-19-2018, 12:30 PM
Brushwolf Brushwolf is offline
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Thanks for the measurements and pics. Saved to my TBird files.

I assume the center access hole in the side pic of bracket is for disconnecting the pedal rod coming out of the firewall. If you draw a straight line through the 3 points of the pivot lever connections (booster rod, assume missing brake pedal rod is at the center of access hole, and the lower hole that the hockey stick shaped lever pivots on) - what is center-to-center measurement of top and bottom pivot points and distance that the center of center access hole is from each of them?

And if you measured vertical difference between the booster rod and the brake pedal rod, what is that distance. I have an aftermarket bracket here that I am comparing with.

66 guy responded that the booster and bracket are gone from the parts car and thinks brackets from it were used for another car.

Thanks, Mike
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  #19  
Old 08-19-2018, 12:45 PM
Brushwolf Brushwolf is offline
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Default WTB 60-66 TBird PB booster bracket or assembly including booster.

Booster itself can be inoperable/shot, as it will not be used.

I just need the brackets that are either bolted or factory riveted to it and the lever that pivots within the brackets, but I can remove brackets and pivot lever from booster myself if necessary. Flat brake pedal "rod" would be handy also..

Thanks, Mike[/quote]
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  #20  
Old 08-19-2018, 12:56 PM
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Default WTB 1961-1964 Brake Booster Brackets - Used

Mike, Clint66 in Kenyon, MN has 4 1966 Flairbirds he is parting out. Could a bracket off one of them be used? You might contact him. For all I know, he may have parts off a '64 available also. Here is the link to what he posted.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ad.php?t=22149

Have you contacted Carl Heller ~ partsetal on here? Carl may have a 1960 Squarebird Bendix under the hood booster, mounting bracket set up, or at least the bracket.... In fact, Carl is now logged onto the Forum right now!
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