As you know, the 64 ammeter takes the full amperage from the alternator at the gauge on route to the passenger side kick panel fuse panel. Since I have a modern 100 amp alternator, I have re-wired the car with a modern fuse and relay box under the hood, and that feeds the remainder of the OE wiring through a 40 amp fuse. I'm using the relays in the box to control all my high amp circuits, so my OE dash controls, for example the headlight switch, are controlling those relays instead of switching the full amperage circuits.
The ammeter needle never moves now. I suspected that this would occur, because I have very little amperage going through it. But now that I've had the car completed for a while and am driving it, I'd like to get it working.
I just learned that the factory system was changed over to a safer, remote shunt in 65. I've been considering converting to a voltmeter but I'm intrigued by that.
Does anyone have a 65 or 66 wiring diagram that shows this circuit? Or a method to convert mine to a remote shunt?
The ammeter needle never moves now. I suspected that this would occur, because I have very little amperage going through it. But now that I've had the car completed for a while and am driving it, I'd like to get it working.
I just learned that the factory system was changed over to a safer, remote shunt in 65. I've been considering converting to a voltmeter but I'm intrigued by that.
Does anyone have a 65 or 66 wiring diagram that shows this circuit? Or a method to convert mine to a remote shunt?
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