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  #51  
Old 05-05-2016, 09:12 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Regarding Mike's theory of draining the bottom end, Kevin indicated that there wasn't that much room on the top end to contain the 8 quarts in the pan.
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  #52  
Old 05-05-2016, 09:21 PM
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The warranty was only good for 90 days. I bought these late December, 2015.
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  #53  
Old 05-06-2016, 03:13 PM
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Randy Randy is offline
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Yadkin sorry to read yet another set of lifter went south .
I'm very curious as to why, what's in there to make them stop working , only because i'm going to rebuild one soon and think it would benefit myself to know? whats going on in the lifters?
if you don't mind I will pay for shipping a bad set to Dave let him take them apart, what do you got to lose, it could be Manufacture Defect. it could happen !
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  #54  
Old 05-07-2016, 12:07 PM
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Thanks Randy that's not a bad idea. I got a lot of local heads scratching on this as well. I'll also send a pair to Kevin, Mike, and dissect one myself.

I just ordered a set of Howards 91261. Mike recommended this manufacturer. According to their site: "designed primarily for ease of maintenance and reliability". They are made in some strange place called "you sah". Summit has them on back order, shipped directly from the manufacturer. Who knows when I'll get them.

I also re-read Rabotnik's chapter on oiling modifications. He recommends a Melling M57HV high volume pump (about 20-25% more oil flow) to increase pressure on the bottom end. Also an ARP pump drive shaft. This is exactly what I have. When using an aftermarket rocker set, they need a lot less oil, so to keep from flooding the top end use 0.060" orifice restrictors, either at the block deck or the rocker mount pedestal. Kevin recommended that I use 0.075" restrictors at the pedestal mounts, which is what I did.

I borrowed the picture below to show the location of the head restrictors. That is a screw-in type. Mine are drop in; they can't go further into the hole because the passage turns, and they can't come out because the pedestal stud.

The last time I removed the rocker set I didn't check that the restrictors were in place; it just never occurred to me. They can't go anywhere. If so, I should have noticed. I'm going to remove the rocker set again and check. My thinking on this: This last lifter set collapsed after a 3500 RPM run. Maybe I starved them of oil?

When priming, I find a lot of oil coming up to the heads. I probably need to use the smaller restrictors, 0.060.
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  #55  
Old 05-08-2016, 09:20 PM
stubbie stubbie is offline
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Steve because I know nothing about rebuilding engines and you need answers to your lifter problems I decided to post your problem on the FE Forum to see if I could find you some answers, other opinions or corroborating evidence (hope you don't mind). Would you be able to tell us your step by step preload process for your lifters?
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  #56  
Old 05-09-2016, 09:59 AM
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OK by me.

Each manufacturer has different instructions for installation.
  • Lunati: Do NOT wash in solvent, wipe the parts off, and coat the outside with oil.
  • Crane: Clean with mineral spirits and coat lightly with oil.
  • Comp: Soak for 30 minutes in mineral spirits, then coat the outside with oil.

For pre-load adjustment, I find base circle of the cam at cylinder #1 by turning the crankshaft by hand (normal rotation). When the exhaust valve begins to open, the intake is at base circle. Wiggle the pushrod up-down while slowly tightening the adjuster. When the pushrod clearance is gone, that is zero lash. Tighten 1/2 turn more while watching that the rocker arm does not move. At this point I usually turn more to find total travel available, then loosen, then reset to 1/2 turn past zero lash. Then tighten the lock nut.

Then I repeat the process in firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.

Next I adjust the exhaust valves. When the intake valve begins to close, the exhaust is at base circle. Set preload the same as the intake.

Valve locations on the FE:
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  #57  
Old 05-09-2016, 10:13 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Kevin Bush recommends finding zero lash while priming the oil pump. To do this, however, requires having open-top valve covers in order to avoid oil spilling all over the sides of the motor. Then you have to have a buddy working an electic drill down the distributor drive shaft.

I cut the top off an old valve cover and did this technique, and still created a huge mess. Not to mention the inconvenience of the method.

The last set of Lunatis that I installed I didn't use that technique at all. Instead I found zero lash with the lifters out of the box, wiped clean and lightly lubricated. I found a substantial amount of static friction (stiction) in the new lifters, and I worked that out by finding zero lash, tightening down lightly to the bottom of the plunger travel, loosening completely, and finding zero a second or third time.
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  #58  
Old 05-09-2016, 10:24 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Re-reading the Comp instructions, they have a paragraph on lifter failure by "particles in the oil becoming jammed between the plunger and lifter body", a common issue in newly rebuilt engines. Clearances are "typically 0.00012" (3 microns)". "Replacing the affected lifter is usually the easiest fix, as any particles should have been captured by the filter (or other lifters) after the initial running."

Kevin recommended I use a Fram Racing filter. After the first failure I cut that filter open, finding no debris. But it is a beefy construction for the high oil pressure. I replaced it with a standard Wix because it's just as well constructed and available over the counter.

I haven't been able to find much on micron ratings of various filters. I just ordered a new Wix Racing filter, but I'm not certain that I will use it.
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  #59  
Old 05-09-2016, 01:28 PM
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Oil filter efficiencies are not easy to find on the interwebs. From what I could find, Wix 51515 has a nominal micron size of 21, with beta ratios of 2/20=6/20. That means that 1 - 1/2 or 50%, of particles 6 microns will be captured, 1 - 1/20, or 95%, of particle sizes 20 microns will be captured. Comparing to other filters, this looks very good.

The Wix 51515R has a nominal micron rating of 61. I can't find a beta ratio. I'm guessing that it doesn't filter small particles as well in a street engine as the regular 51515. I'm sending it back.
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  #60  
Old 05-10-2016, 09:45 AM
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After talking to Howard's tech department, I decided to go with the Howards 91169. They are in stock and appear to be more for street use. They'll arrive on Wednesday evening. On Thursday I'll get the car hauled to the shop in Mocksville then disassemble the top of the engine to change out the lifters. Mike's engine guy will be there and help me diagnose what's going on.

Last edited by Yadkin : 05-10-2016 at 09:57 AM.
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