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  #21  
Old 12-29-2015, 01:56 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Not a lot of info out there with respect to manufacturer's details on link bar type lifters. One manufacturer states that they are 'not rebuildable'. Guess I should have done that research before...

New set of Lunati's on their way.
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  #22  
Old 12-29-2015, 03:01 PM
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Steve, are you familiar with 'dog bone' lifters? Mustang (and other engines) have used them for many years. When given a choice I always choose the dog bone type because they do not have a link or a rivet. They simply have two flats and the dog bones keep the lifter rollers square to the cam...


The lifters look like normal roller lifters with no rivets, and they slide up and down through the dog bones That sheet metal 'spider' you see bolts to the valley and it holds each dog bone down. Ford Racing sold them for over a decade. I used them in my Mustang forever:
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  #23  
Old 12-29-2015, 03:27 PM
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I've seen them, just not for the FE.
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  #24  
Old 01-05-2016, 12:35 AM
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The new Lunati lifters arrived last Thursday, too late to install anything because we had plans for the long weekend that didn't include wrenching. So sad...

I got right to it after work today. I cleaned off all the gasket sealer with a scotch-brite on my angle grinder and my shop vac running right at the discharge. Mopped up the old oil with lint free towels, then vacuumed the top of the block and heads. Went through again with a half can of brake clean. Then more towels, a second wash down, then mopped up the fluid, then drained the oil and removed the filter.

Lunati says do not use solvent to clean the lifters, opposite of Comp and Crane. Wipe clean with a lint free cloth, coat with 10W-30, and install. They also recommend checking clearance with the block; I don't have those expensive tools. They seem a bit tighter that the Cranes but they slide up and down easily. My bores are good- I don't expect a problem.

Here's what I found inside the filter. This is a Fram Racing filter, heavy gage, lots of flutes. The overall picture shows a short section expanded out and there are about five 1/4" long "worms", which are grey RTV gasket maker. The second picture is a close-up of one of them. Based on this sample size I'm estimating 100 or so of these worms made it into the filter.

I have a magnetic tip on the drain plug and that had about a water drop size of very fine steel dust. I'm guessing that is the break-in of the newly honed cylinders.

Keep in mind this is my second oil change. The first one I had next to nothing on the magnet so didn't bother to dissect the filter. So the worms must be my doing. I'm guessing that I was messy with the front and rear intake seals; I did have a leak after all. Maybe I didn't leave enough time for the sealer to set up.

I tried a new strategy with those two troublesome seals. The last gasket set I bought was a Felpro high performance set, and came with self-adhesive cork seals. They are cut to fit the casting very nicely. I stuck those on after the side gaskets and trimmed up the ends; I didn't like the tabs that are supposed to fit into the side gasket grooves so they got completely cut off. I used a bead of black RTV at all four intersections, smoothed them out with my fingertip then let set for an hour. Then I put a thin bead of RTV black on top of the cork and set the manifold down using my awesome wood bracket, with the help of my awesome 109 pound daughter. Then I waited exactly an hour at 70 degrees F, and torqued it down in three steps according to the factory repair manual.

I finished the evening by washing the pushrods and rocker sets with more brake clean, cleaning with towels then installing. I have the valve covers on loose with towels in the oil fill and distributor hole, all covered up and dust free. Hopefully I'll be able to get back to it tomorrow night, adjust the valves and get the big girl back whole and running sweet.

I have not dissected the old Crane lifters. Looking at the way they are assembled and knowing the hardness of the steel, I'm not looking forward to that task. After what I found in the filter I don't think that task is necessary.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1.jpg (78.2 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg 2.jpg (41.8 KB, 37 views)

Last edited by Yadkin : 01-05-2016 at 04:19 PM. Reason: pictures
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  #25  
Old 01-05-2016, 05:21 AM
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Everyone has his way of doing things and I sincerely hope your job produces great success.

Growing up as a young teen, I was in the midst of all aspects of the car manufacturing industry. Either my neighbors worked for the big 3 or they supplied parts and tools. (Dad's company cold-headed bolts for Fisher Body.) I had a neighbor down the street who worked for Bendix but had a heart attack and died very young. The insurance left his widow and sons very well off. One of his sons was about six years my senior, bought a brand new '64 GTO. After about a year he pulled the 389 out and he dropped in a 421 Super Duty racing engine with a Turbo Hydromantic including a shift kit and a stall converter.

I learned mountains from this guy because he loved wrenching on this engine and he understood the technology. One day, I saw him using a garden hose on his block and I thought he was nuts. Turns out, that's exactly what the factory uses, dense water under high pressure in all the ports, to carry away particles left in there from the machining/grinding/honing process. They do not use compressed air. Heat from the water quickly dries the metal before noticeable rust develops. Fast forward to today where we have High Pressure Washers that are portable. Want to de-grease? Add soap.

After my blocks come home from the machine shop, even thought they are clean, I wash them again. The water costs very little and the particles are so small I cannot see them. All I care about is that they are gone before the oil pan is mounted.

Those sealant 'worms' you described are a curiosity. How did they get sucked through the pickup screen? How did they NOT get mulched in the oil pump rotors? I have to believe some pieces DID get mulched into small pieces. Hopefully they were all trapped in the filter element. If you found evidence of metal particles in the bottom of your pan, drop the pan, wash the bottom of your engine and clean the pan before re-assembly. If the 'worms' got into the oil pump, so will the particles. The difference is, steel will embed in the rotors. If the pieces are too big the pump will stop and the intermediate shaft will look like this:
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File Type: jpg TwistedIntermediateShaft.jpg (52.7 KB, 38 views)
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Last edited by simplyconnected : 01-05-2016 at 11:23 AM.
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  #26  
Old 01-05-2016, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
How did they get sucked through the pickup screen? How did they NOT get mulched in the oil pump rotors? I have to believe some pieces DID get mulched into small pieces. Hopefully they were all trapped in the filter element. If you found evidence of metal particles in the bottom of your pan, drop the pan, wash the bottom of your engine and clean the pan before re-assembly.
Good question. I've also noticed that my oil pressure dropped after warm-up. Time to drop the pan and pump!
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  #27  
Old 01-05-2016, 10:48 AM
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Default Lifters not pumping up

I have been following, as I am sure many others are also, your conversation with Dave regarding the problems you have run into. Your post #24 mentions pix, but I do not see any pix. I do see Dave's oversized pic and PM'd him to ask him to downsize it.
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  #28  
Old 01-05-2016, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
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...I've also noticed that my oil pressure dropped after warm-up. Time to drop the pan and pump!
How far did it drop? What is your idle pressure and your running pressure?
Do you know your bearing clearances or was that left up to the builder?
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  #29  
Old 01-05-2016, 05:27 PM
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Kevin chose the clearances in accordance with his formula. Instructed me to use a 7 of 8 quartvoil and 15-50 or 20-50 oil. I forget the clearances that he used, but they are on the high side. Upon initial start I had a mechanical gauge installed and it showed 80 psi cold high idle then get to about 60-65 range after warm up.

After I got the interior back together and the instruments working I removed the mechanical gauge. The dash gauge was 3/4 at idle then 2/3 when warm. After this problem developed it would start at 2/3 and drop to 1/3.
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  #30  
Old 01-05-2016, 05:32 PM
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I'm going to take this opportunity to check the level in the oil pan. Filling it with 8 quarts including the filter gets it at the highest mark on my aftermarket dip stick. The engine would burn a lot of oil until it got to about 1/2 way. I've read where the correct level is 2-1/4" below the bolt flange.
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