65 Convertible With Rusted Rocker Panels

[arizonajack]

The reason I am willing is that I just cant find any 65 convertibles anywhere near my price range.

Well, exactly what is your "price range."

If your "price range" is $5000 plus the cost of restoration then your "price range" is likely $15,000 to $20,000 to restore a rust bucket.

Be realistic. Even if you get the rust bucket for $2,000 to $4,000 you'll still have another $5,000 to 10,000 in professional repairs of the rusted parts.

[msith718]

About 5k is what I am looking to lay out.

Maybe I am just too naive but I dont see 15-20k in costs

That also means that I didnt plan on "professional repairs" at any point. Which is also why I would avoid a rust busket -- another term that can probably mean different things to different people.

To me, it means a car where multiiple patch panels are needed, plus some floor pans, maybe work on the doors/hood too. In other words--a LOT of areas that need welding patches.

But just rockers and floors (if that is the case) I woudnt consider a rust bucket.

I am resigned, somewhat, to the fact that I wont find a car that is 50+ years old with no rust. This is due to the fact that I probably wont go to California to pick a car up and I dont want to pay for someone else having done the work.

Back to this car. If (a big "if" perhaps) the only rust that needs to be handled with welding is the floor pans and rockers, costs are probably under $1000. The interior would need no work. I dont know what work would be needed on the engine, but I would do that as needed. Other mechanical stuff also would be done as needed. I dont get the sense that this needs a mechanical overhaul. And I know money will need to be spent... but I cant see 15k.

I would paint it myself. $1500 supplies for primer, paint, etc.

I know, it wont be showroom quality. But I have confidence that with patience, common sense, and research, I can do a fine job.

I just dont see how it puts me anywhere near the 20k range.

But, I am fully open to the possibility that I am out of my mind and totally naive.

[arizonajack]

I'm in Arizona. Anything with rust is a "rust bucket." :-)

Anyway, hope for the best but plan for the worst.

[msith718]

And one thing I was curious about that I forgot about with all of the [incredibly helpful] feedback.

The value or loss of value of using 3x3 square tubing to repair a rocker panel. I see it is fairly common across a number of different makes/models.

But with a classic, does it hurt the value?

Assuming there were two cars that were the exact same car in every respect, except for the rusted rockers (assuming inner or both and needs full replacement)

After repairing one with square tubing and one with factory rockers, would they be worth the same? Or would you expect to take a big hit on the one with square tubing?

And, if so, that leads me to ask why not fabricate rockers? I mean, anyone that can weld in rockers should be able to weld together a replacement, no? My understanding is that when you use the square tubing, you only notice it if you look under the car. But if you fabricated your own, it would look no different, right?

[Yadkin]

I think that you need to take a road trip and see this car- you may be over thinking this.

With regards to using 3x3 square tube, I see that for more of a frame repair, and again, this car is a unit chassis. The structural rockers are heavy gauge sheet steel, so you're better off using the same gauge, shaping it, then cutting and welding in a patch.

I have seen a Mustang chassis modified with 2x2 stock, but that was to make a roll cage car. THat project, by the way, was a complete rust bucket, and the rockers were in good shape.

With regards to value of classics, to me there are two categories: all original, and modifieds. Low mileage, no rust, all original cars are easy to value. Modified cars are not. But a modified car done right, tastefully, to increase performance and safety, is better than a car modified to "make do", or to make a difficult repair easier.

[jopizz]

Most times 2X3 or 2X4 tubing is used to repair inner rockers. When done correctly it's not noticeable because it's covered by the outer rocker. If you can see the repair then it wasn't done right.

If all the car needs is rockers and floors then you may be able to get away with minimal repair costs if you can handle everything yourself. That's a big if though, because very rarely is rust just limited to those two areas.

John

[simplyconnected]

Again, I agree with John. Since this IS a unibody, the rocker steel must take the place of frame rails. It is welded in place with the floor pans also welded to it.

I suggested you use 12ga. If you ever bent 12ga., you will eagerly buy the channel. Most automotive panels are difficult to weld because they are so thin. 12ga., is easy to weld without burning through.

OEM channel uses a 'Z' configuration. If you use the 2"X4" channel it will be every bit as strong or stronger than original. You need the 4" height to help stop body twist and torque, especially turning up a driveway apron. Some convertibles twist so bad the windshield cracks. - Dave

[msith718]

Even though the 12ga channel will weld nice, the floor pan is being welded to it, right? The floor pan, I am assuming will rest on top of it. So, it would still be easy to burn through that right?

So, I am assuming when you fit together an inner and outer rocker, the inside dimensions are not smaller than 4"?

Some convertibles twist so bad the windshield cracks

Really? You mean when the structure has already been compromised? Although I guess its like that old video of the bridge swaying in the wind. Seems so solid, but there is a LOT of play.

[simplyconnected]

When you start welding you will learn certain techniques. When welding a thicker and thinner panel together I usually start the weld on the thicker piece and 'sneak up on' the thinner one. Penetration is crucial in welding so now we have a balancing act going on; current must be sufficient for penetration but low enough so you don't blow through your work. Timing is important as well.

A series of tack welds holds pieces together without warping them. Then short welds between the tacks keeps the heat (and warp) down to a minimum.

It won't be hard to determine where the steel channel goes or how to level it. Make sure you have enough length from the front to the rear and 'tie in' to the front sub frame (torque box)and the rear sub frame.

If you ever owned a convertible you will recognize what I tried to explain about the body torque as the car drives up an incline at an angle. It's a feeling where the suspension works, then the body may crick a little as it flexes. As the car ages flexing gets worse. Hardtop Mustangs with huge engines form cracks in the roof from many hard launchings.

If you want to know if 4" will visibly clear, measure it! - Dave

[msith718]

Thanks. Everyone here has been so helpful.

I really appreciate it.

Now, I am need to do a little more on my end. I will keep this post updated. And of course, may have more questions pop into my head.

For now, I think I need to consider the price and if it really is as good a deal as I originally thought. Im pretty certain the seller is not going to negotiate too much... at least until some more time passes. So I may just need to be patient.

Thanks again!