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**YellowRose** · May 31, 2017, 09:57 AM

Inoperable Fuel Gauge

Steven, IF the CVR unit failed, it may have allowed the 12v voltage go through the CVR and take out the 6V gauges. However, one would think that all of your 6v gauges would be dead. This is what happened to my '59. 12V got to the gauges an burnt out the wiring connecting the CVR to the gauges. I had to have my gauges re-wired to make them work again..

I see you replaced the CVR unit. I hope you replaced it with a solid state version. If not, these Chinese CVR units have a bad failure rate, I am told. Our webmaster, Dave ~ simplyconnected, has a solid state CVR unit that he makes and guarantees for life. That is what anyone who has to replace a CVR unit should go to. His unit will NOT allow 12v to get to our 6v gauges...

**jopizz** · May 31, 2017, 10:20 AM

Steven,

Try removing the wire from the fuel sending unit, turn the key on and ground the wire to the body of the car. If everything is working the gauge should go to full. If it doesn't your problem is with the wiring, gauge or cvr. If it does either your sender is bad or it's not grounded correctly. You can test your cvr by removing the black/green wire from the fuel gauge and put a voltmeter on it with the key on. You should get around 6 volts. However if your cvr is bad your temp gauge would not work either.

John

**PC1963T-Bird** · May 31, 2017, 01:39 PM

I should also mention that someone who owned the car before me installed a radio, temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge in a console thing that sits/hangs in the middle of the roof. Above the center console kind of. So the built in temperature gauge does not work.

**PC1963T-Bird** · May 31, 2017, 01:41 PM

I thought I bought the CVR from Dave. It's been a year or so and a lot has happened since then. I could be wrong. I'll test these tonight and report back.

**simplyconnected** · May 31, 2017, 04:40 PM

Originally posted by PC1963T-Bird

I thought I bought the CVR from Dave...

I generate my shipping labels with my computer, then I save them on my HD.

I don't have anything for Steven Brooks or Gainsville, FL. BTW, most of my customers are paid members of Squarebirds.org because I offer them a deep discount as a courtesy.

Are you the guy who called and asked if I had a 'spare' core?

Originally posted by PC1963T-Bird

...My fuel gauge in my 63 has stopped working. It's a replacement one and it did work at one time. I have checked all the connections on the back with the shop manual and everything looks good. I've also replaced the CVR just in case that had gone bad. Could that have gone bad and fried my gauge?...

Is this replacement a Ford or aftermarket gauge? If it's an aftermarket, the CVR may not be right for it. - Dave

**PC1963T-Bird** · June 1, 2017, 07:00 AM

Yeah I went back and checked the link for your CVR. Didn't get it from you. I think I bought it online from the RTE website. But I really can't remember.

**Guest** · June 1, 2017, 02:44 PM

You definitely need to check the correct ground connection of your fuel tank.
The tank is only grounded by touching the rear frame... it's very common, that this doesn't work very good. Try to install a ground cable and check, if your gauge is showing full afterwards.

Steffen

**simplyconnected** · June 1, 2017, 03:59 PM

Here's how it works... Think of your gauge without power, like when the key is off. The needle goes to zero (empty). If you have only a little fuel, again, the needle registers close to zero (or empty).

If the wire from your gauge to your tank is grounded (or pinched in body metal), the gauge will register 'FULL' because the most current is going through the gauge. The same holds true when your tank really IS full.

Grounding your tank is great advice because it doesn't take much rust to hold back 12-volts (or less). - Dave

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Inoperable Fuel Gauge

Inoperable Fuel Gauge

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