Hood lock

[Yadkin]

I'm been thinking on this one a while and finally got around to doing the install. Here's my pull handle from controlcables.com mounted on the driver's kick plate. The stand-offs are pieces of AC hose, but I'll switch over to black plastic bushings when I find them. The rear screw (closest to the handle) is at the original screw location, just longer and with a decorative washer. The second screw just keeps the base from rotating.

[Yadkin]

Here's the factory latch, ready to modify.

[Yadkin]

Adjusting base nut from Control Cables:

[Yadkin]

I'm using a 1/8" pipe nipple as a guide barrel for the 5/16" diameter lock pin. I drilled it out 1/64" larger. A simple matter to mark the proper location to interrupt the latch mechanism, then drill and tap.

[Yadkin]

Here's a dry fit of the aluminum lock pin. It's a hand sagae fitting from Control Cables. I ended up soldering the stainless cable into the large hollow section of the pin, and set it 180 degrees from the orientation in this picture.

[Yadkin]

Here's the pin and barrel on the left, and the adjusting base on a simple 90 degree bracket on the right. Since this is a push-pull assembly, it's important to get these lined up closely.

[Yadkin]

Lock pin extended. I ended up grinding down the opposite side to get it to fit, since the latch moves slightly towards the pin from this position when the hood is closed.

[Yadkin]

The two #10 screws to the right of the latch hole hold the bracket.

[Yadkin]

To do: Install a set screw in the operating handle to convert it to a push operation. If that doesn't work, install a compression spring between the adjuster and the guide barrel, and some sort of ratchet on the handle to make it a one-man job.