ABS module?
On my '96 Dodge 1500 4x4 5.9L (360) (I know - Dodge - don't give me too much grief).
This one followed me home. When I bought the truck about a year and a half ago it had been sitting for over a year. On the test drive the truck still ran great but I could tell the left front caliper was sticking so...
Replaced the Master Cyl, Booster, hard lines (all of them - full length of the truck) flex lines on the front and rear, calipers, pads, rear wheel cyls and shoes - basically a whole new system. Didn't replace the rotors or drums they looked good and didn't vibrate so figured they were not warped or out of round. Bench bled the master cyl first then bled the system thoroughly with new fluid using the method described in the service manual for bleeding ABS systems. Clear (no air) fluid out of all the bleeders on all 4 corners. And I bled them a few extra times just to be sure. You unplug the ABS module (or disconnect the battery) and let the fluid flow through the ABS module. Only needs to be cycled electrically if the ABS fluid module was replaced (according to the manual).
Worked great - never had any trouble for over a year and a half. Didn't like the quality of the re-manufactured booster but it worked so didn't worry about it.
Last month I was leaving a car show and when I stepped on the brakes it was like not having any boost. It's had a vacuum leak since I bought it so....
Replaced the intake manifold gaskets (5). Sure enough the gasket on the bottom of the manifold (2 piece manifold) was bad. Figured this was why it wasn't building vac pressure for the brake booster.
Nope - same problem. Only happens about every 10 or 12 brakes but sometimes 2-3 times in a row. Seems like no boost. ABS light does NOT come on. Really have to stand on the pedal to stop the truck so.....
Replaced the booster and check valve that I didn't trust.
Nope same problem.
Going to replace the Master Cyl with a better quality - just used the cheap-o from Advance but even the cheap-o's should work for more than a year. The manual only lists a way to verify the ABS module is getting voltage and not dead - basically "how to diagnose an ABS light on the dash". My ABS light is not on but cycles on when starting the truck so I know it's not burnt out and the ABS worked this winter on the snow and ice.
Any ideas? Anyone fooled much with ABS systems? This one is a Kelsey Hayes system.
Probably just a bad master cyl but thought I would see what you guys have seen.
Thanks,
Eric
On my '96 Dodge 1500 4x4 5.9L (360) (I know - Dodge - don't give me too much grief).
This one followed me home. When I bought the truck about a year and a half ago it had been sitting for over a year. On the test drive the truck still ran great but I could tell the left front caliper was sticking so...
Replaced the Master Cyl, Booster, hard lines (all of them - full length of the truck) flex lines on the front and rear, calipers, pads, rear wheel cyls and shoes - basically a whole new system. Didn't replace the rotors or drums they looked good and didn't vibrate so figured they were not warped or out of round. Bench bled the master cyl first then bled the system thoroughly with new fluid using the method described in the service manual for bleeding ABS systems. Clear (no air) fluid out of all the bleeders on all 4 corners. And I bled them a few extra times just to be sure. You unplug the ABS module (or disconnect the battery) and let the fluid flow through the ABS module. Only needs to be cycled electrically if the ABS fluid module was replaced (according to the manual).
Worked great - never had any trouble for over a year and a half. Didn't like the quality of the re-manufactured booster but it worked so didn't worry about it.
Last month I was leaving a car show and when I stepped on the brakes it was like not having any boost. It's had a vacuum leak since I bought it so....
Replaced the intake manifold gaskets (5). Sure enough the gasket on the bottom of the manifold (2 piece manifold) was bad. Figured this was why it wasn't building vac pressure for the brake booster.
Nope - same problem. Only happens about every 10 or 12 brakes but sometimes 2-3 times in a row. Seems like no boost. ABS light does NOT come on. Really have to stand on the pedal to stop the truck so.....
Replaced the booster and check valve that I didn't trust.
Nope same problem.
Going to replace the Master Cyl with a better quality - just used the cheap-o from Advance but even the cheap-o's should work for more than a year. The manual only lists a way to verify the ABS module is getting voltage and not dead - basically "how to diagnose an ABS light on the dash". My ABS light is not on but cycles on when starting the truck so I know it's not burnt out and the ABS worked this winter on the snow and ice.
Any ideas? Anyone fooled much with ABS systems? This one is a Kelsey Hayes system.
Probably just a bad master cyl but thought I would see what you guys have seen.
Thanks,
Eric
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