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Old 01-03-2017, 05:12 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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OMG Henry, so much has changed since the 430 was produced. Let's start with your rebuild...
Did you bore the cylinders and replace all eight pistons?
If so, did you use DOMED pistons like the originals, or did you replace with flat-top pistons? Flat pistons lose a ton of original compression ratio and a lot of HP.

Original pistons come in RH and LH sets of four and nobody makes them (due to low demand). Some piston manufacturers will cast a set for ~$1,200. Then, they must match your new larger bore size. Actually, I have that wrong. We match bore size to the new pistons. That is why all sizes of pistons are NOT available, all the time. To be safe, they stock +.040" (or larger) pistons because they should fit all overhaul jobs.

Next, we need to talk about modern fuel that was NOT designed to run in a 430. Gasohol will ruin your OEM valves and modern low ZDDP oil will ruin your cam. The only remedy I know of is to use hardened exhaust seats and valves that won't weld to the seats. Yes, you can buy lead additive. As for the ZDDP, most oil with a viscosity of 40 in the numbers will work or you can buy zinc and phosphorus additives.

I love Ford products but the 430 is THE hardest engine to rebuild simply because parts are not available or they cost way too much money. Your oil pump also includes a vacuum pump. Wonderful, but where can you find one? I suggest 430 owners find a good core 390 and build that. They can produce MUCH more HP than the 430 and parts are everywhere. Edelbrock makes aluminum heads with all modern goodies, and intake manifold that saves 100 pounds. Add a roller camshaft and run that engine another 250,000 miles on pump gas and modern oil.

RE: Hesitation... My experience with older engines is, their cam is retarded from a stretched timing chain. Normally, a new timing set will correct this. When I build a street engine I advance cam timing by at least four degrees to bring torque peaks down closer to low and mid range rpms. Of course after timing set wear, the offset will settle closer to zero advance.

To set things right and proper, we normally reference with respect to the crankshaft. So, advancing the cam will RETARD the crank timing. That means, when the #6 piston is at TDC on it's exhaust stroke and the rocker arms are dead level, crank timing should show four degrees BTDC. - Dave
My latest project:
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