1966 brake booster

[Clint66]

Is there a different booster you can use to replace the original? Having a hard time finding one with or without a master cylinder. Every place seem to be out of stock. Just wondering if there is a newer more available model. Thanks for any help!

[Yadkin]

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=19410&highlight=brake&page=3

[Clint66]

Thanks for the reply. I looked at that post and was wondering does it matter if the master cylinder is a two part container? The original one is a single I think? Guess I haven't done enough with converting master cylinder to know if that makes a difference.

[Yadkin]

That thread is for a matched set: booster and master. If you have a single master I recommend upgrading to a double for safety reasons.

[Clint66]

This looks good but is there a booster combo on the market I don't have to modified to make work?

[simplyconnected]

I totally agree with Yadkin (Steve). For the sake of safety for you and your family, use a dual-reservoir (dual piston) master cylinder. Every car on the market has one (for many decades, now) because the NTSB requires it along with seat belts, etc.

There is nothing worse than having NO brakes.

Yes, you will need to modify your system but it really isn't hard to do and it can be done in one Saturday morning in your driveway.

You also need a combination proportioning valve. This ties both front and rear systems together by means of a hydraulic spool. If a brake line ruptures or a wheel cylinder comes apart, the spool will shut off the 'bad' system to prevent further brake fluid loss and it will turn on a 'BRAKE FAILURE' light while the 'good side' still works as normal.

You can buy pre-made brake lines at most auto parts stores OR you can cut, bend and flare your own (which is what I recommend). Your car's wheel lines already come to a tee on your frame so you only need to re-route the lines to a 'prop valve' at the front of your car.

Combination proportioning valves are sophisticated in their operation as they;
meter, giving initial pressure to the rear wheels, then to the fronts,
tie the front and rear systems 'together' with a spool in between,
turn on a 'FAIL' light and,
if you have DISK/DRUM systems this valve lowers pressure to the drum brakes but maintains full pressure to the disk calipers.

If all your front/rear brakes are the same, (disk/disk or drum/drum) there is a different combination prop valve for that application because both systems use the same pressure.

One of our longest topics on Squarebirds.org covers changing our cars to disk brakes. Many of our members have done it and none of them have switched back. My classics stop just like a modern car. - Dave

[Clint66]

Yes I agree safety is number 1! Does anyone know which model of brake booster he used? It said tuff stuff 2131, but there are several different models. 2131 nb and a couple others I don't recall the letters used. Just want to get the correct one.

[Yadkin]

The 2131 series looks to be different finishes and bore sizes. Choose a 1" bore.

[stubbie]

I was just looking at RRS and saw this. They are supposed to fit Thunderbirds as well as Torinos.

http://www.rrs-online.com.au/66-70-torino-under-dash-brake-booster---master-cylinder.html

[Yadkin]

Interesting. However there isn't a lot of room down in that area. Since the engine is squashed up against the engine bay, the transmission tunnel is huge right there. The HVAC plenum is probably in the way.

[stubbie]

I think you have to remove the fresh air intake to get it installed.

[Yadkin]

To me that looks like more trouble than it's worth. If you had a truck without a console and you were trying to stuff a big block far back in the engine bay, maybe. It's not that hard to adapt a much less expensive unit to fit under the hood of our cars.