Which oil filter from these (Rock Auto)

[Rock&Roll Firebird]

Hello guys, it's been a while since I ordered a pack of oil filters from US. Since there is a hudge price difference in the attached oil filters, can you please advise which are OK to spend a buck for? I don't mind spending $10 for a filter when I know that the technology and usage for the car is worth the money. Thank you.

[newyear]

I have used and am using the standard FRAM filters.I change the engine oil roughly every 1500 miles though so presume that a standard fllter is adequate.

[Deanj]

Here's an interesting site about oil filters:

http://minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html

I think its value is in what to avoid or what filters aren't worth spending extra money on.

Dean

[jopizz]

I use Motorcraft in my Fords and ACDelco in my GM cars. That's what the factory uses and I've never had a problem in 45 years of driving. I don't see any reason to change.

John

[simplyconnected]

Many times, we have disputed claims about different brands etc., and everyone has their steadfast opinion.

The article asks, "Which filter is the best? There is no easy answer to that one. It depends on what kind of oil you use and how much you are willing to spend." <--Are you kidding or just being politically correct? Neither.

The truth is, in ALL cases, REAL filtration comes when you change your oil. That is why I do it often. That way I know acid content is low, lubricity is still high and ash (yes ash, which comes from burning oil) is discarded out the drain.

Most engine wear comes when you first start your engine after it sat all night, draining. Add cold Michigan winter temps, when oil is thick. The starter motor grunts and struggles to crank. At this critical time, most oil gets bypassed in the filter because there is no way it can squeeze through paper. (Race cars use TWO paralleled filters for this same reason.)

Originally, engines had a simple screen, like a window screen for bugs. European cars kept this method through the 70's, especially VW, Fiat and a host of others. So, they depended on oil changes as well.

American engines are huge, the oil pans are large and the oil gets twice as dirty because we have twice the number of cylinders producing twice the HP (or more). My Harley has a removable element, much the same as early domestic engines. Then, we went to 'spin-on' to keep our hands clean but at a higher cost for the convenience factor.

Many will disagree but I actually prefer the removable element because I can see exactly what's happening and they are cheaper. A spin-on conceals the insides of which we have heard horror stories about from being badly manufactured.

This begs the question, 'how do you know your filter is actually working?' The oil still gets black regardless of filtration... And one more thing... That same course screen, mentioned before, is on the bottom of the pump's pickup tube. Oil mulches through the oil pump BEFORE it gets to the filter.

In my old age, I've come to the conclusion that original engine designers were right, that oil filters don't matter. Yes, I change them to remove old oil inside but again, the real filtration comes when you dump that old oil and replace it with fresh. - Dave

[Rock&Roll Firebird]

Thank you for info guys. You are great as always .

[Yadkin]

I like the Wix. The factory is just down the road in Gastonia, NC.

[OX1]

I use Motorcraft in my Fords and ACDelco in my GM cars. That's what the factory uses and I've never had a problem in 45 years of driving. I don't see any reason to change.

John

Ditto on the MC, usually can get them cheap at Walmart.
I use synthetic in my turbo cars and new 5.0 coyote (with 5000 mile changes).
Everything else gets regular oil and the same 3000 mile oil changes they always got.

[Guest]

As an OEM Industrial Engine Salesman of 17 years, I say you can never go wrong with OEM. Motorcraft for Fords is exactly the reliability and filtration the engine was manufactured to use.

[Rock&Roll Firebird]

Thank you guys, a pack of Motorcraft filters is already on the way.