Question on pulling a 352

[Bill A]

I'm pulling the engine on my car. The engine has already been replaced by a previous owner. I'm pretty sure its a 1962. It has a FMX transmission. Everything is disconnected and unbolted and the radiator and hood are out. I unbolted the block from the conveter housing and the flywheel from the torque converter. The shop manual says for the next step to secure the converter assembly in the housing. How the heck do you do that? There are no access openings and the flywheel blocks access. I don't want to drag the converter out with the flywheel (the converter studs will drag on the flywheel) but I can't see how to do that. Any help out there?

Thanks,


Bill A
wabate
verizon
net

[jopizz]

Bill,

When I pulled the 352 out of my '59 the motor was frozen so there was no way to turn the converter to unbolt it from the flywheel. I had to pull the converter out. It's not a big deal to do it that way. You should pull the converter out anyway to put a new front seal on the transmission. Just put something under the front of the transmission to keep it from dropping.

John

[simplyconnected]

I can tell you this; the factory dropped the engine AND trans in as one unit. If I were pulling it out, I would do the exact same.

If you really want to separate the two, the trans can be pulled by simply unbolting four torque converter nuts on the flex plate, then pull the trans back. (I assume you already disconnected the driveshaft, tailshaft/crossmember, exhaust, etc.)

Once the torque converter is unbolted and the engine is separated, the converter will simply slide out. I always marry the engine & trans with the converter installed. Simply line up the drain holes and stud holes, and wiggle them together as you tighten the nuts and turn the flex plate. Here's a pic:

[RustyNCa]

Bill,

When I pulled the 352 out of my '59 the motor was frozen so there was no way to turn the converter to unbolt it from the flywheel. I had to pull the converter out. It's not a big deal to do it that way. You should pull the converter out anyway to put a new front seal on the transmission. Just put something under the front of the transmission to keep it from dropping.

John

I'm with John on this one. When I pulled the 352 from our 58, I supported the front of the trans with a piece of wood cut to support it. Pulled the motor out and then reversed the process with we dropped the 390 back in.

But get your self one of those tilting deals for the hoist. They are worth every penny.

[kenneybert]

Ive changed a few of them over my lifetime and maybe once in my life I separated them .. I find it a lot easier (myself) to pull motor and tranny as one unit ... anyways works better for me..

[Bill A]

Pulling my 352

Thanks guys for the input. The trans was recently rebuilt so there is no need to pull it for repairs at this time. I'm limited in space in my garage and don't think I can pull both at once. I just could not figure out how the manual wanted me to secure the converter assembly in the housing. Maybe I'll rethink this.

Thanks again,

Bill A

[jopizz]

Whichever way you do it, pulling the converter or not when you lift the engine the front of the trans will lift also because of the dowel pins holding it. Once you lift the engine so the motor mounts are free put a jack, a jack stand or a cinder block with some wood under the bell housing of the trans to keep it raised. This will give you the correct angle when you go to put the motor back in. You didn't mention what year car this is. If it's a squarebird the engine will want to hang on the power steering ram cylinder. You can either unbolt it and drop it slightly or you will have to finesse it past it.

John

[tbird430]

If your car has factory AC, watch out for the plastic AC plenum case on the firewall too. It breaks very easily....

-Jon in TX.

[davidmij]

I took off my fan then I just blocked the belhousing with a stack of solid boards and swung the motor forward - it came right out.

DaveJ

[scumdog]

A straightened-out coathanger (or welding wire!) across the front of the bell-housing from one bolt-hole to another will prevent the torque-convertor from sliding off into the dirt should the front of the transe somehow end up lower than the rear.