Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Has anyone replaced their lower control arm bushing? From the Shop Manual, it looks like I have to drop the whole lower control arm from the ball-joint and frame. Can it be done my simply removing the old bushing from the frame attachment or does the whole arm have to come off?

Suspension work does not thrill me.

[simplyconnected]

Follow the procedure in your Shop Manual. Make sure you use good jack stands before going under your car. Once you get the lower arm out you can work on your bench. Even so, the bushings will not come out easy. Use a big hammer and take lots of pictures. - Dave

[DKheld]

The front end has to be lifted pretty high on the Squarebird to get the lower arms down far enough to remove the springs and A arms. Believe it was about 22 inches.

Took my bushings and A arms to a machine shop and had them press out the old and press in the new. More expensive - think they charged about $40 - but was quick and done.




Eric

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Lower Control Arm Bushing

Follow the procedure in your Shop Manual. Make sure you use good jack stands before going under your car. Once you get the lower arm out you can work on your bench. Even so, the bushings will not come out easy. Use a big hammer and take lots of pictures. - Dave

Hi Dave:

Sound advice. From looking underneath the car and the manual, it doesn't appear to be too difficult procedurally to remove the lower control arm. And I expect that if I do one, I will do the other at the same time.

While I have your attention, can the issue of a bad bushing cause the vehicle to pull right when braking? I ask because I have totally redone my brakes, new shoes, turned drums, new brake lines, flushed and new fluids, new wheel cylinders, and proper adjustment. But I am still getting this pulling issue. Any thoughts?

yep, and many pics will be on the way.

[simplyconnected]

Hi Dave:

Sound advice. From looking underneath the car and the manual, it doesn't appear to be too difficult procedurally to remove the lower control arm. And I expect that if I do one, I will do the other at the same time.

While I have your attention, can the issue of a bad bushing cause the vehicle to pull right when braking? I ask because I have totally redone my brakes, new shoes, turned drums, new brake lines, flushed and new fluids, new wheel cylinders, and proper adjustment. But I am still getting this pulling issue. Any thoughts?

yep, and many pics will be on the way.

***WARNING*** Do one side at a time. That way you can use the other side as a reference.

Shoe brakes pull. That's the nature of the beast. Sometimes they pull in one direction when cold then they pull in the opposite direction when heated up.

Why? For sure, if ANY of your steering or suspension components are sloppy you can expect a fight with the steering wheel. Another cause may be mis-matched brake linings. Each wheel needs a primary shoe and a secondary. They must be installed and bedded-in correctly.

A disk brake retrofit will stop the pulling to one side or the other. Disk brakes also stop a whole lot better. The difference is huge.

Chances are, original bushings are rotted and need to be replaced. I did mine in the driveway because I'm cheap. I used a 2-1/2" pipe nipple and a 5# hammer. This work is not for the faint-hearted, but with a little perseverance and persuasion, you can do it. I'm sure you can always find someone else to do the work for a price. Not me.

Randy Harsha lives in Fallbrook, not far from you. Send a PM to 'Randy' because he is in the middle of doing the exact same bushing and brake work on his '60 Squarebird. CLICK HERE for Randy's pictures.

Much of this work is straight forward and easier to do than to describe. Be careful and put the frame on jack stands. Then use a smaller jack under the spring before separating the lower ball joint. You won't need a spring compressor.

If you have more questions, please ask. We're here to help. - Dave

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Awaiting parts and here we go

Hi Dave:

Ok, I am sending a note to Randy, per your connection. Thanks. I am trying to save myself about $400, and I am just dumb enough to try these things myself. The only that that concerns me is the removal of the ball joints from the lower control arm. Taking a 5# sledge and a pickle fork sounds frightening, but what the ****, right?

Here's what the right side looks like today:


Looks like it needs to be replaced. As for disc brakes, I am trying to stay as original as possible, plus I just did a load of brake work, and that was a learning experience! I'll get around to it in the future. It's the right thing to do.

[simplyconnected]

Yep, looks just like a worn out bushing.
Randy is a great guy and he's easy to speak with. He will show you what to expect and how he tackled his bushings. - Dave

[Randy]

Im sitting here at the airport waiting for my peeps reading this thread with my name in it how cool is that, and I would say that yes you can do it and save lots of money, I see you took it apart that was scary, lots of pictures
I thought I took enough pictures and there was still a picture I wish I had.
O and Howdy Doody this is Randy and Dave he's priceless

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

HI Randy

Hi Randy:

My name is Geoff, and I am over here in Carlsbad. I have not taken this apart just yet, as I am contemplating what it takes. Nothing looks terribly difficult, but separating the ball joints concerns me. Those are new ball joints, and I would hate to destroy them.

Is there a chance that if I use the pickle fork and hammer that I can save those ball joints? Do I need to disconnect both the upper and lower or can I just release the lowers?

I am awaiting the 2 bushings to be delivered before I put her up on stands and take a crack at this.

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

I found this description on Ford Muscle Forum

Make your own ball joint tool , works like original ford #T57P-3006-A.
4 3/4" long 1/2" allthread, 1/2'' rod coupling on on end, then 1/2" nut,2 fender washers, then a 5/8" rod coupling on the other end. Use as directed in the Fairlane shop manual, works great without damaging ball joints or dust boots.

I would love to get a picture of this. I like the fact it works great without damaging ball joints or dust boots.....

I am trying to get the author to send me a picutre of this.

[jopizz]

Unfortunately the suspension on a squarebird is completely different from your '61. The spring on a squarebird is on the lower arm and is relatively easy to remove. On your '61 the spring is above the upper arm and is very dangerous if you don't have the correct spring compressor. If you do a search in the 64-66 forum Yadkin found a spring compressor that worked on his '64. It should work on your '61 also. I would not use a pickle fork if you are hoping to save the ball joints. If they are new you may be able to get them loose by hitting the spindle where the ball joint goes in with two hammers; one on each side. Make sure you keep the nut on the ball joint a few turns. If you are only going to remove the lower arm then you don't have to remove the spring. Just follow the instructions in the shop manual.

John

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Lower Ball Joint Disconnect from Lower Arm

Hi John:

Thanks for chiming in. So, i am looking under the vehicle, and I am thinking I only need to disconnect the lower ball joint stud from the spindle. I do not need to remove the ball joint from the control arm, since it's going to go right back on. I am only trying to get to the lower control arm bushing at the frame.

So, if I remove the cotter pin and loosen/remove the ball joint nut, the ball joint should then slip out of the lower wheel spindle, and I can remove the strut & stabilizer from the LCA, and that should be that. That's the logical side of me.

What's the reality?

[jopizz]

You are correct. Once you remove the ball joint stud from the spindle, the shock and the stabilizer bar link the control arm just drops down and you can remove it. The hardest part is always separating the ball joint. The rest is pretty simple.

John

[GeoffInCarlsbad]

Stressed out over ball joint

Oh, so cool! I am not going to remove the ball joint from the control arm, so yes, this should be pretty simple!

Ok, As soon as I can get her into the garage, I'm going for it. Hopefully my parts (new lower control arm bushings) will arrive today.

I will be taking lots of pictures and hope to get back to you all with a success story later this weekend.

[Randy]

HellO Geoff in Carlsbad . Randy in Fallbrook I towed my bird from Oside.

I have the fork and pick up a joint separator haven't tested out
for other side. best thing i learned get a BIG hammer, Dave Dare sent this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWtk3e5oDwQ
................................................
I dink around for a few days playing with bottom joint first, when i figured it out, the rest came off easier. I didn't have much luck with the fork way, it spread apart, but mine had never been taking off. whey they say hit it with hammer, I got the bottom off after I got mad at it, got me BIG slagdammer # 10 and went to town on it. it laughed, next put heat to it from a propane fuel tank for camping fixing copper pipe, it must of been loose,(not) i pick up my Big hammer It hit it like "John Henry" it was sweet, prettiest sound!!
oboy that was swell, my face has new wrinkles from grinning so much, I did it... I'll be going to San Diego 3 times to day, if you want i can stop see if i can help, I don't usually take the 5 but, hey what are Squares for right. and i/ll bring my new joint separator see if it works. I think i read you say your ball joints are newer i bet they come out easier maybe! Randy out.