Engine removal

[jhuebner]

I have the Edelbrock composite valve cover gaskets and a complete FelPro gasket kit not sure what the gaskets are made of the box has yet to be open and its all out at the garage an hour away

[Yadkin]

Most of the kits I've seen have cork. It's useless as a gasket material IMO.

The Edelbrock composite has worked well for me for the valve covers. These engines are notorious for flooding that area with too much oil. I've installed restrictors in the galleries to my heads, reducing the oil flow, and they still flood, and cork leaked badly.

Part of the problem involves the OEM sheet metal valve covers. They deflect badly at a mere percentage of the recommended bolt torque, even with spreaders installed.

Use the Edlebrock composite with spreaders, no sealant.

[simplyconnected]

I respectfully disagree with Steve.
My 'Y-Block' valve covers simply have two nuts holding them down, right on top of the 'dome':

These engines have solid lifters so lash adjustments must be made periodically.

The gaskets are cork and they do not leak if sealant is used.

FE valve covers have bolts around the flange. This offers a much more even pressure if done right. In fact, cork or composite both work if installed properly. Originally, the idea of composite was to re-use the gasket. We used to put two composite gaskets on each valve cover with nothing between the gaskets, but sealer was used on the metal surfaces. This worked, but how many folks pull their rocker covers off periodically?

If your sheet metal 'pans' are distorted from someone cranking on the bolts, pound the bolt holes straight with a hammer before starting.

Cork works well on the oil pan and rocker covers if it isn't squashed-out and distorted. Prepare all the metal surfaces by degreasing with lacquer thinner, then spread a very thin layer of Permatex Black on the metal. I also spread a very thin layer of Permatex Black on both sides of the cork gasket to fill any imperfections. Let the Permatex cure or 'skin over' before assembly.
Put Loctite (blue, not red) on the bolts and run them down about finger tight, then go back over and put an extra half-turn on each bolt. Done. Let the gasket do the sealing, but it must not be torn apart from being crushed.

FE intake manifold gaskets are hardest to set. They continue to travel down hours after the bolts are tight. It's a bad fastening design by Ford. When you set the intake manifold, put Permatex around the water holes (only) and leave out (omit) the block gaskets in the very front and rear. Those pieces tend to inhibit the intake from descending all the way down.
I start by cleaning the front and rear metal surfaces with lacquer thinner, then spread Permatex on them. There will be a gap that you fill-in with more Permatex, later. Now, make sure your lifters are set and the sheet metal pan is in place:



Set the gaskets and intake manifold in place and put the distributor in the hole to help align the intake. Start tightening intake manifold bolts (with flat washers) but not all the way, spreading from the center bolts to the outside edges. The bolts are supposed to slide up the manifold as the manifold descends. I usually give the bolt heads a sideways rap with my hammer to introduce a little vibration. In a few minutes, the manifold will be down more. When the manifold is down all the way, tighten the bolts and fill the front and rear gaps with Permatex Black.

Now, I assume the oil pan is on. Add engine oil (I use the distributor opening), and prime the oil pump intermediate shaft while you watch oil come out the rocker arms.

When these engines were built in Dearborn Engine Plant, they made 500 per shift, all good engines that did not leak and their intake manifolds fit perfectly. My FE overhaul doesn't leak oil at all.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kB8X...ature=youtu.be

You should be ok with Edelbrock gaskets. They sell quality stuff. - Dave

[jhuebner]

Will follow advise on setting intake gaskets, I no longer have the original valve covers, I have the Ford Cobra LeMans valve covers and with the cork I had no issue with leaks, I have a set of new cork and composite waiting to install, the hardest issue seems to be getting all the right RTV over here in Germany

[simplyconnected]

...the hardest issue seems to be getting all the right RTV over here in Germany

I did my whole engine in Permatex Ultra Black, as pictured. No issues at all.

This stuff is amazing. Back in the day we used varnish, Permatex #2 (that never hardened) and Permatex #1 (that did harden). Ford made gaskets out of RTV on many engine parts, like Escort oil pans, with no cork or paper, since the 1980's. Our sealing choices are much broader and they work better now. - Dave

[jhuebner]

Will start pulling engine today, yesterday I noticed that the engine contact (anchors) lift points are missing any suggestions where to connect the engine balancer puller to the engine at or a safe way how to connect with them missing, thanks.

[Guest]

!F E engine removal

Pull carburater replace with lift plate then you should be fine

[simplyconnected]

I'm not sure what information you are after. I am also not sure exactly what you plan for this overhaul. Rebuilding a Ford FE engine is NOT the same as Chevrolet or Chrysler engines. In particular, FE oiling can be confusing to mechanics that have never worked on one. A very common error shows up when someone gets ready to fire the engine up and they have no oil pressure. FE pushrods are solid and NO oil goes through them because rocker arm shafts oil the top of each head.

So tell us what all you will do with your engine. Do you have a good engine machine shop available to you?

There are many ways to lift an engine. I prefer using chains because they do not stretch. I screw in bolts with washers going through the chain, and tightened down. I use opposite corners of the heads with a spreader bar to clear the carburetor.

Others prefer using straps, usually wrapped around the exhaust manifolds. Still others use a plate that sits where the carburetor is. It is a good idea to remove your carburetor because it is so fragile and expensive to replace.

If you have not seen my engine build, I suggest you look through this site. Once you are there, click on the topics that are underlined -->CLICK HERE

You mentioned the damper pulley. You will need a puller to remove it. I made my own by welding nuts onto short pieces of steel. Click on this picture for the full story-->


Before dropping the engine in the car, I run it in a test stand. I go through about five gallons of gas and lots of heat/cool down cycles to give it a good test. If anything is wrong it will show up during my testing. Fixing the engine on a stand is far easier than pulling it out of the car again. - Dave

[DKheld]

As far as I know many of the older US engines didn't ever have lifting anchors or points. None on my old British cars either

(like these?)


Similar to Dave's suggestion I used longer grade 8 bolts and washers in the head with a "load leveler" attachment on my engine hoist. It came in very handy.



I know many folks use them but I just never have liked the loop you can install on the 4 small intake bolts for the carb. With my luck I would pull one of the carb studs out and ruin the intake.



Hope that helps.
Eric

[Joe Johnston]

I would NEVER use a carb plate for a Ford FE. It is just to heavy for me to be comfortable lifting all of that on 4 bolts, but I know guys do it. I removed my engine with an engine crane and no help, but first removed the intake, heads, water pump and starter which lightened the load considerably so I could move it by myself. It was fully assembled for the install and I had 2 helpers which was necessary to align everything and not scratch any paint.

No matter how you do it, work slowly and safely!!

BTW - I used the crane to lift off the intake and heads too - lifting 80+ pounds of intake from the engine is not for my back!

[simplyconnected]

Ford routinely removes manufacturing tools that are not part of the function of the cars because engines rarely get pulled, extra metal means extra weight and the plant only needs 2,000 sets for in-process vehicles. Lifting eyes are among these tools. Y-Blocks were hoisted with two giant claws that hooked around the ram's horn exhaust manifolds that rise so far, they nearly touch the M/C.

I like your tools, Eric. Your hoist will safely lift any engine.
X2 on the carb plate. Many manifolds are aluminum and the carb studs are 1/4". That's not enough margin for error when swinging a 650-lb engine around in my book.

When I'm working under the car aligning motor mounts, I sure don't want any surprises or unexpected motion from 'marginal' tools. - Dave

[jhuebner]

Was able to get everything disconnected just have the motor mounts to loosen to pull, have the alternator, powersteering pump, waterpump and radoiator out, plan is to replace the following gaskets, valve covers, heads, intake manifolds, oil pan, rear main seal, freeze plugs etc....install new oil pump, power steering pump and lines waterpump, motor mounts......overall replace everything that I can, thanks for advice on pulling the motor will connect the chains to the heads with longer bolts

[simplyconnected]

I strongly urge you to change your timing chain set. Summitracing.com has a very nice one for a decent price:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6608-9

This is a true double roller chain set that will last four times longer than your original chain.

When you install it, advance your cam four degrees by using the '4A' slot. - Dave

[jhuebner]

I have a new timing chain and gear set have been planning this for awhile hope I have everything covered, still need to get a Ford style powering steering pump I have all the lines already

[jhuebner]

Pulled the engine Thursday nite without any issues, will now be easier to change out the brake booster and the master cylinder will also clean up the engine bay, thanks for all the advice will have some questions once I start replacing the gaskets