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**simplyconnected** · March 3, 2012, 01:30 PM

I don't think so. The older disk boosters are single-stage which makes them very wide. Squarebirds don't have a lot of real estate for width so we use a two-stage 8" booster which gives us ample boost but still keeps the diameter the same as our old drum brake boosters.

The hard part is not in the booster or M/C, it's the firewall bracket that raises the combination 5". Just about any one-inch M/C will work if it fits your booster.

I hope this helps. - Dave

**jopizz** · March 3, 2012, 04:44 PM

Dave,

Thanks for the info. So I guess the most economic alternative is having Dewey's Booster Service modify my old one for disc brakes. Or is there a less expensive option.

John

**ncbird** · March 3, 2012, 05:28 PM

booster option

John, if you have a non air car and the original firewall booster there is another option. I have a non air car and looked at multiple routes including the dewey route. I finally settled on going with the dual 8in just as Dave says the bracket is the issue. I removed the bracket from the original and built a 1 1/2 in spacer between it and the new OID booster/MC. The purpose of the spacer is to get the correct geometry on the linkage. With this setup you use all your current linkage without modification. My combo valve mounts underneath. Just another idea.
Grant

**jopizz** · March 3, 2012, 06:36 PM

Grant,

I have a '59 with the under dash booster but I have a couple '60 boosters laying around. Do you have any pictures of your setup and where did you get your booster.

John

**simplyconnected** · March 3, 2012, 09:25 PM

Originally posted by jopizz

...the most economic alternative is having Dewey's Booster Service modify my old one for disc brakes. Or is there a less expensive option...

I have a lot of respect for Dewey. He does nice work at a fair price. BUT, Old Irish Dave sells a 8" two-stage booster and M/C combination for under $200. +$25 will get it in chrome. These are MBM brand and guaranteed for life. He also sells combination proportioning valves in brass or chrome at the best prices in town.

Give OID a call and tell him I sent you. He's in NM at 575-544-4729. - Dave Dare

**jopizz** · March 3, 2012, 10:02 PM

Dave,

Thanks. I was wondering what OID meant. The only reason I mentioned Dewey was because after seeing a picture of Eric's (DKheld) modified booster I liked how it looked more compact and factory than other combinations. Whether the performance is the same I'm not sure. The price with m/c and shipping is about the same for both. More decisions.

John

**ncbird** · March 4, 2012, 03:45 PM

mock up

John, here are a couple of pictures of my setup during mock up. I have been taking it on and off while working on the brake lines so yes the nuts are loose. This is the unit Dave mentioned except mine has a cosmetic upgrade. I looked at several options and finally decided that for me this was the most cost effective. The bracket extension is an MBM bracket for a Jeep that I cut down and had tig welded. Note that the adjusting rod fits the stock bell crank with adjustment available. Grant

**simplyconnected** · March 4, 2012, 04:34 PM

Grant, that's a very nice setup and it looks dynamite.

The main function of this firewall bracket is to raise the booster five inches.

Why? Because the old OEM booster was made for drum brakes and it needs to be nearly twice as large for discs. The steering column (and A/C plenum) is in the way.

So, Grant fabricated his own firewall bracket using two sections from other brackets, and connected them to a two-stage 8" booster. This booster is the same physical diameter as the old OEM, but it puts out twice as much boost (1,000-psi at 18"Hg with a 1" bore M/C). It turned out nice and he saved money.

Notice that Grant's M/C has crossed Cunifer lines. Each S-10 caliper has a piston that is 2-1/2" in diameter. So, if your M/C has a large and small reservoir, the large side gets plumbed to the front disc brakes. - Dave

**lawyercalif** · March 4, 2012, 05:01 PM

Do you think that setup using the Jeep bracket would work in an A/C car?

**ncbird** · March 4, 2012, 07:04 PM

clarification

If you missed my post earlier in this thread the bracket bolted to the firewall is the original booster bracket. I removed from a srock non-air firewall booster. That is why I can use the stock hockey stick etc because it all fits in the stock firewall bracket. The modified jeep bracket is the one between the new booster and original ford bracket. The second bracket is needed to move the new booster out due to the big snout and adj rod. The jeep bracket was about 3 1/2 in long to begin with and positioned the boooster farther out then I neede. to Remember an original booster gave up its life for this so if you don't have one that's an added expense. John said he had a couple he could use if he needed to. Thanks Dave for the kind words. How are you cutting the lines with out deforming them? Do you have to clean up the flare with some 320 paper after flairing them?

**jopizz** · March 4, 2012, 07:59 PM

Grant,

Thanks for posting the great pictures. I'll make sure I keep them for reference as I probably won't be doing the conversion for awhile and I'm sure I'll forget who posted them.

John

**lawyercalif** · March 4, 2012, 09:16 PM

As luck would have it, I have an original bendix booster on my parts car. I will use it as a start to fabricate one that fits my convertible with A/C. I may need to move mine out further because of a A/C, so the Jeep unit may work fine as is. I just found a jeep bracket on EBay for $39.00 including shipping, so I took a chance and bought it.

Originally posted by ncbird

If you missed my post earlier in this thread the bracket bolted to the firewall is the original booster bracket. I removed from a srock non-air firewall booster. That is why I can use the stock hockey stick etc because it all fits in the stock firewall bracket. The modified jeep bracket is the one between the new booster and original ford bracket. The second bracket is needed to move the new booster out due to the big snout and adj rod. The jeep bracket was about 3 1/2 in long to begin with and positioned the boooster farther out then I neede. to Remember an original booster gave up its life for this so if you don't have one that's an added expense. John said he had a couple he could use if he needed to. Thanks Dave for the kind words. How are you cutting the lines with out deforming them? Do you have to clean up the flare with some 320 paper after flairing them?

**ncbird** · March 4, 2012, 10:02 PM

sourcing

In case anyone else decides to do this morris 4x4 sells the bracket for around 12 dollars plus shipping MBM-B7495. I will post a picture of the full jeep/original bracket.

**simplyconnected** · March 5, 2012, 06:21 PM

Originally posted by ncbird

...How are you cutting the lines with out deforming them?..

Grant, it's as easy as you would expect:
Cut with a simple tube cutter (because it must be a straight cut). Cunifer is not as mushy as copper. Simply slide on a nut, put the tubing in a cheap Harbor Freight inverted flaring tool with the end sticking out, the length of the first step on this little black 'hat'. Then clamp tight, and flare with this 'hat' in the tube.

This is the first flaring operation. If we were doing European cars, we'd be done right here.

This is what it looks like:

Here's the second and final step:

Here's the finished inverted flare. Notice the nut is on the tube, in the background.

If the flare was bent using too much tube sticking out, you may use a drill bit to deburr the hole. - Dave

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