The 1998 Ford Escort has a braking system that is criss-crossed.  Meaning, one rear wheel is plumbed with the opposite front wheel.

That type of system requires two brake lines and two hoses to the rear wheels.  Since these cars were produced, Ford no longer does the criss-cross deal because ice causes the car to spin out of control.

My Escort's brakes failed while I was sitting at the drive-up window of a fast food restaurant.  While reaching for my order, I pressed the brake pedal.  To my horror, the pedal sunk to the floor.  Being a 'gentleman mechanic', I had the car towed three miles home in the rain.  I waited until a warm day approached, then went to work.

The leak was easy to find.  I simply added brake fluid and Robin pumped the brake while I watched.  Sure enough, smack in the middle of the trailing axle, fluid was running out.

A word about assembly methods:  Ford probably bought the rear axle assembly.  It was hoisted and bolted in place, then all connections were made.  I'm sure it went quickly because everything on the axle was built-up as a subassembly.

# 1
Don't you just love getting under a nasty old rusty car?  Notice the two brake lines feeding the center of the axle.  The one on the right had rusted through.

# 2
Notice the guide pin and attachment bolts, holding the axle onto the body.  Also notice the LH brake hose.  Since all these parts are so rusty, I easily broke the tubes off at the joints.  The hose is held in place with horseshoe-type clips.  What you can't see is the very short hard line that connects the hose to the wheel cylinder.  This system has four times the number of inverted flare connections as a 'regular' car.  Normally, the hose attaches directly to the wheel cylinder.  Not this car.
The black tube is some sort of powder coating on steel, with the ends exposed.  The car body brake lines have an inferior greenish paint on the steel lines, probably because they are from a different supplier.  Both brake line coatings are crap.

# 3
On the axle, these brake lines snake in and out but are attached with plastic holders.

# 4
Notice the top lines and how badly rusted they are.

# 5

# 6
This is the 'lines' routing.  On the far left are two brake lines next to a STAINLESS STEEL fuel line (I'm still scratching my head but, ok).  I added the electric wire years ago.

# 7

# 8
I didn't intend on showing the broken sway bar mount.  You can just see a small bit of brake line going to the wheel, at the top.

# 9
This car is all metric.  It uses the exact same 3/16" brake line we've used for many decades.  The only difference is in the flare nut threads.  Why?  It's beyond me.  The threads are so similar it isn't funny but they will NOT interchange.
Brake Line Bending Pliers work like magic.  I never used a single measurement other than my eyeball.  The brake line I am using is called, CUNIFER, which consists of some copper.  CU=copper, NI=nickel, FE=iron.  Cunifer will not rust and it bends and flares like butter without kinking.  Copper cannot take any flexing or it work hardens.  This stuff won't.  So all the tools and supplies are for 3/16" brake line.

#10
On the left is a tube that I bent for the wheel cylinder-to-brake hose.  The pliers allow pretzel-like bends.  The long pieces are the snakes I removed from the axle.  Notice I broke the ends off.  It all needs to be changed.

#11
The distribution block in the middle is made of cast iron and it keeps both sides separate from each other.

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#10
Here is the LH rear wheel setup... Most hoses enter the wheel cylinder.  This one has a hard line from the wheel to the hose.  Then another hard line on the other side of the hose.  This makes for a lot more work and time bending and flaring.  Notice that I reused some of the IFF (inverted flare fitting) nuts.  They are all steel and they all rust.  If I could find them in brass, I would prefer that a lot better.  Otherwise, I broke off the original brake line and drilled the stub out of the nuts.  There were a few I could not salvage so five are new.

#10
Here is the RH rear wheel setup.

#11
Here is my replacement piece, bent entirely 'on the spot' without a tape measure.  All the new lines dropped right in place.  From the middle of the car back, required 14 IFF nuts, 20' of 3/16" brake line and two hoses.

#12
Here is the cast iron block all cleaned up and completely connected with the body tubes.

#13
A closer look.

#14
Here is the RH rear wheel setup.

#15
Here is the RH rear wheel setup.

Inverted Flare Fitting (IFF) Procedures:
#16
Inverted flaring takes a little practice but is easy to do.  Start with a clean end, cut straight.

#17
Slide the nut on with the flare facing the end.  Take your time and don't forget this very important step.

#18
Clamp the tube in the flaring tool vise.  The small black piece on top has two uses.  Right now it is used for a guide.  Notice the tube nearly extends to the second step, but not quite.

#19

#20
Place the tool inside the brake line

#21

#22
Now mash it down with the inverted flare tool press.

#23

#24
Now it's mashed flush with the vise.

#25

#26

#27
This tool keeps the center open as it forms a mushroom.  If this were a GM car, we would be done.  They don't invert their flares.

#28

#29

#30
Without that black 'hat', mash it down again.

#31
I keep a very small amount of lube on the end.  Brake fluid works great.  Keep oil and petroleum products far away.

#32

#33
The light makes it look funny but this is a perfect inverted flare.  Open the vise and release the tube.

#34

#35