Ford 292 Y-Block

HEADS Section

***For Rocker Arm adjustment procedure, click HERE.***

An "unknown" 1959 Galaxie engine and still on the shipping pallet.  I purchased
the complete engine and Ford-o-matic 3-speed automatic transmission from a
 man in MA.  My only complaint is, this is the filthiest engine I ever rebuilt.
After saying that, it's also the least abused engine I have rebuilt.  The cam and
crank are like new.
Bearing sizes for the mains and rods are STANDARD (+/- zero).

#1
Did I mention this engine was filthy?

#2
I soaked and brushed these shafts in diesel fuel for days.  The only way to clean
these is by disassembly and clearing all the drilled holes.  Each rocker arm has
two tiny oil holes.  None of the 32 were clear, which means new rocker arm shafts
are a must.  The shafts only orient one way, and cannot be turned around because
of the oil feed hole on the bottom.

#3

#4

#5

#6

#7

#8
Alter your rocker shafts by grinding a groove in the bottom oil holes, as shown
above.  This compensates for rocker arm oil grooves that don't quite align with
the shaft oil holes.

#9
Cleaning and de-rusting is 95% of restoration.  The top cover was soaked in
sulfuric acid over the weekend.  Hydrochloric acid finished removing all the rust.

#10

#11

#12
You can hardly see "FORD" embossed in the steel.  Look in the CHROME Section,
to see what this looks like after they are finished.  My chrome plater is the best!

#13
Stripped, skinned (for straightness), new hardened exhaust seats inserted,
and the guide towers were machined to accept new Viton seals.

#14

#15

#16
Yep, these are the good 113 heads with the big 1.92"intake valves.

#17
A few close-up shots of the new exhaust seats after being ground.

#18

#19

#20

#21

#22
I'm showing a couple Viton seals on this primed head.

#23

#24

Parting lines from all the different foundry core molds are ugly and gotta go..

#25

#26

#27

#28
With the lines gone, high temperature primer makes them look clean and smooth.

#29

#30
These are the original valves re-ground, with new springs and seals.  As mentioned,
 the engine was dirty, but it was not abused.  The valves & guides measured
minimal wear. I kicked around all day about the color.  Not original to 1959,
I chose Ford Blue.

#31

#32
It's a beautiful 65F Michigan day, my head-stuffing table & chair
is set, and my K-D valve spring compressor is waiting for more Ford action, again.

#33

#34

#35
Don't be afraid to seat the seals, using a small rubber mallet.

#36

#37
I install them dry, and make sure they're all the way down.

#38

#39
Time to lube valves and screw them in.  That's right, screwing them in
benefits two ways; it ensures oil is spread inside the valve guide & the seal
won't tear as the sharp valve stem 'steps' over it.  That stuff in the can is my
secret engine-build lube.  Oh well, alright, I mix STP with 10W-30 engine oil. 
The STP by itself is too sticky and 'stringy'.  I thin it down a bit so it will mix
and flow away when the real engine oil comes along.  I've used this on every
engine I rebuilt, except on cylinder walls.  They get WD-40.

#40

#41

#42

#43
Lube all the valve stems and guides; screw all the valves in.  Don't be afraid
to 'work' the valves back and forth as you screw them in.

#44

#45
Paint the top of the stems with lube, too.

#46
Here we go:  The first valve spring.

#47
This is how it looks from the top, ready for split-lock keepers.

#48
You can't see, but I use heavy lube on the keepers, too.  It helps them stay put.

#49

#50
Completed spring, with the tool relaxed to show how it works.

#51

#52
Yep!  I pound on them with a rubber mallet after they are together.  Use all your
senses.  When you smack the valve, it will make a distinctive sound.  All the
intakes should sound the same and all the exhaust valves should sound the same.

Right now is a good time to see if any keepers fail.  If ANY valves stick, find
out why, immediately!

#51

#52

#53
The second head took ten minutes to stuff, (because I didn't stop to take pictures).