1960 SQUAREBIRDS POWER WINDOW MOTORS
BY: 60 T-Bird (Martin Burs) & Simplyconnected
This Power Window Motor is from a 1960 Thunderbird. There are slight
internal differences between this, and the 1958 and 1959 Squarebird motors.
Picture #1 The two long mounting screws were removed for easy
wheel access. Before attempting disassembly, BE SURE there are no dents or
raised metal (dings) on the motor shaft.
If there is, the shaft will hang up on the bearing, causing unnecessary damage.
Use a fine file and go over the shaft surface. Any imperfections will show
up immediately. File them smooth. The housing shell should easily
slide off of the motor shaft.
Picture #2 This is a ScotchBrite wheel,
not a grinding stone! The purpose is to remove paint, rust, and scale,
not dents or dings.
Picture #3 File the set screw marks so they aren't raised
and gently tap the bearing off. If you feel resistance, look for an
obstruction on the motor shaft. Continued hammering will destroy the
Picture #4 Here are the parts laid out.
This is really an "after" picture, but keep track of the washers as they help
control end play and center the armature in the housing.
Picture #5 This is the armature before the commutator segments are cleaned-up.
This commutator shows evidence of excessive oil or grease, but a careful
inspection shows no burned, scored, or tapered segments.
* Commutator segments are made of soft copper with micarta or bakelite between
them. The brushes are made of carbon-impregnated bronze. This combination
serves many purposes: The materials are heat resistant (lots of current to
causes arcing), the carbon forms a lubricating surface that current easily
passes through, and they last many decades.
Picture #6 I zoomed-in as far as possible to show the commutator
silhouette. I want to see the contour of these segments. This one is
nice and straight, so cleaning is all that is necessary here. As a LAST
resort, a commutator can be 'trued' by tooling the copper down on a lathe, but
the protective surface will be gone and the micarta will need to be undercut
with a knife. Then, the brushes should be arced to match the new
commutator radius (do this by hand with very fine sandpaper on the commutator).
Further 'break-in' will sacrifice some brush length.
Picture #7 Nicely cleaned field coils and
brush holder plate.
Picture #8 This is an excellent image showing the brush
holders and where the wires are soldered. Ford kept the integrity of using
Black for all ground wires.
Picture #9 This image shows the sintered oil
lite bearing (on the left) with a surrounding felt oil retainer. The
reason it is out of the holder (top) is because the motor shaft had a bur and
further hammering destroyed the rivets and the spring washer. The
replacement spring is on the bottom right.
Picture #10 This is a broken brush holder from
a pre-1960 motor. Epoxy was used to repair it.
Picture #11 The yellow wire feeds the UP field coil, the red feeds
the DOWN field coil. Both coils exit with black wires. Eventually,
all black wires will connect on the solder pad attached to the brush holder
Picture #14 This is a good picture of Martin Burs's hand.
Picture #15 Before installing the armature, use 'T'-pins
(available at any hobby store) to hold both brushes back.
Picture #16 This armature was cleaned, turned down, and now
the commutator segments are being undercut by removing micarta between segments
with a knife.
Time to reassemble and paint this motor. Below is the
electrical schematic (including the switch). The motor and leads are
depicted within the dashed lines.
Picture #17 Squarebird power window motors are DC shunt
motors. Ford kept this configuration in Thunderbirds until 1963.
Then, Ford used three-wire series motors.
1960 Thunderbird Quarterglass
Created: 18 February, 2011
Last Edited: 18 February, 2011
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